Late Checkout: Three Days in the Storied Hotel Chelsea

The Hotel Chelsea is all about its history; from Titanic survivors who briefly de-camped there due to proximity to Chelsea Piers, to the legendary celebrity house guests like Madonna and Bob Dylan, and many more who have come before and after. And while some claim that the halls are literally haunted by ghosts, the lore only seems to add to the property’s enduring appeal. Over the years, many guests took up residence for long term stays while others floated in and out, perpetuating the hotel’s reputation for being a revolving door of New York’s most eccentric. But in recent years, the hotel management changed hands and it ultimately underwent an eleven year renovation which took the building from a run-down bohemian refuge to a design destination for cool, local night owls and curious out-of-towners alike. 

Now, anyone can stay at one of New York City’s most illustrious addresses for around $500 a night (depending on season, that is). This editor spent a whirlwind three days at the hotel and even got upgraded to an apartment suite, feeling like she was really back in time – taking up just the tiniest bit of residence.

The Stories

This hotel has a long and fabled history that’s steeped in urban myths and plenty of legends. After a failed experiment to turn the structure into a cooperative in 1905 (where tenants would save money by sharing fuel and services), the building morphed into its first hospitality iteration, a luxury hotel regularly visited by guests such as Mark Twain and the painter John Sloan. After World War II, as the hotel declined, artists like Jackson Pollock and composers like Virgil Thomson were drawn in by its fading beauty, and poet Dylan Thomson (who Taylor Swift just referenced in her new album drop), even died in one of the rooms after a few too many whiskeys. 

In the 60’s it was known for headquartering prostitutes and pimps alongside the uber wealthy who wanted to be part of an edgy but cool scene (you could easily run into Janis Joplin in the elevator). Arthur Miller, calling the hotel “a total slum,” set up shop there after separating from Marilyn Monroe and Edie Segwick was said to have set her mattress on fire. And, reflecting the turbulent climate of the late 70s, it was where notoriously Sid Vicious stabbed his girlfriend. 

In its most recent history, the hotel was run as an informal artist’s colony where it operated on a trade system, adding to its legendary bohemian reputation. When the owner was forced out by his partners, the building was sold to a real estate magnate and was thrown into a 40 million dollar renovation, helmed by hotelier Sean McPhearson of Bowery Hotel fame. Today it serves as a beacon of fabulousness for New Yorkers and visitors alike, making West 23rd Street once again, fire.

The Re-Design

Under McPhearson’s discerning eye, the iconic Victorian red brick building still stands in all its glory, but is now laden with heavily veined marble, floral Chinese Art Deco rugs and kitschy statues strewn about. Basic bedrooms have monogrammed beds, even more antique Chinese rugs, leopard printed chairs, fringed velvet sofas, while apartment suites are equipped with La Canche stoves and vintage mid-century light fixtures. Bathrooms are kitted out in gray marble and unlacquered brass fittings (with amenities by Red Flower).

The hotel’s El Quiote restaurant (founded in 1930), happens to be New York’s oldest Spanish restaurant. Original murals grace the walls, while vintage chandeliers sourced from an old Lord & Taylor dot the ceilings. A rotating art collection makes it all Instagrammable for any Gen Z clientele. The front of the building has served as everything from the famed Chelsea Guitar Shop to a bait-and-tackle store, making way for its newest inhabitant; the glamorous French bistro, Cafe Chelsea. If you can weasel your way in (even as a guest!), it’s worth braving the thick crowds at the bar for the good (but sadly, not amazing) menu. 

The Neighborhood

One of the many draws of the hotel is the location. It’s just a few long blocks away from the galleries and the hoppin’ stretch of High Line, a short walk south to the buzzy Meatpacking District, and a little further down, the charming West Village. Now that many of the top galleries are centralized in West Chelsea (think: Gagosian, David Zwirner, Mary Boone), it’s easy to head west and pop into all of them in one swoop (this editor caught both Chuck Close and Richard Prince exhibits in one rainy morning). Just south, on Gansevoort Street, is the Whitney Museum which moved downtown in 2015 – into a 50,000 square foot space, no less. 

If the weather is nice (but why let rain stop you?), head further afoot toward the West Village to find shopping galore on Bleeker Street, CW Bigalow, the legendary apothecary on lower 7th Ave, Angel Feet, a jewel box reflexology spot on Perry, and then grab a New York slice to eat on the go. If pizza’s not your thing, there’s always Springbone, a bone broth shop on West 3rd. Of course, you can continue on to Soho and NoLiTa – because that’s the beauty of New York; you can get twenty thousand steps in, even on a rainy day.

For a real grand finale, end your stay with a trip to Violetta Laze, a tarot reader/intuit/medium who practices out of her 7th Ave office space, a mere seven blocks north of the hotel. There, she’ll read your cards, dive into past lives and even connect with someone on the other side (this editor found her to be about 90% accurate). In fact, tapping into your past, present and future just might be the ultimate way to pay homage to your stay at one of the world’s most legendary hang-outs.