Villa Igiea: Palermo’s Grande Dame Hotel

In the face of White Lotus’ smash hit status, you’d be forgiven for only picturing the seaside hotels of Taormina (and Jennifer Coolidge) when you think of Sicily. You would also, however, be missing out on so much of what this fascinating, beautiful island offers. I was lucky enough to land in Sicily in April for a week of exploring from Palermo to Mount Etna and finishing in the legendary Taormina. Palermo was easily the surprise of the week, in no small part thanks to my stay at Villa Igiea. 

Dating back to the early 1900s and lovingly renovated and reopened in 2021 by Rocco Forte, Villa Igiea is like being hosted by your new friend, the Italian baroness who has impeccable taste. As most things should, my stay here started with a prosecco in an oversized rattan club chair on the terrace. Every table is dotted with colorful ceramic pine cones, which are a Sicilian symbol of good fortune. I soaked it all up, watching as the boats came and went and then was still enjoying my perch as the sun went down. 

I felt like I was sipping, and later sleeping, in turn of the century Sicily…but with wifi. I quickly realized that this is the kind of hotel where you should take note of the intricately painted ceilings and the dripping chandeliers and the manicured gardens dotted with orange and lemon trees and that pool. It was too cold for a swim in April, but I’ll be back for her specifically. 

Why Palermo?

Palermo is much more than an obligatory one night stay en route to somewhere more off-the-grid. It is a bustling city filled to the brim with people and traffic and a rich history that local guides are eager to share. Its many former conquerors and cultures are evident all over town, especially if you have someone knowledgeable to point them out (as I did). Gothic and Baroque architecture up against high end shops and tourist quarters, with outdoor covered markets and endless trattorias in between. And, again, traffic. But less like the 405 gridlock traffic I’m used to and more of the hand-waving, charming Italian traffic. 

I recommend spending two or three nights here, giving yourself just enough time to gape at the dramatic splendor of the Teatro Massimo and Capella Palatina and take a zippy tour of the city’s winding streets via a candy-colored, vintage cinquecento. Also, don’t sleep on a walk through the covered market along the Via Ballaro, where you can sample some local snacks (panelle, wild strawberries in season, and the many variations of little fried fish). 

A Taste of the Villa  

Like any big city, you don’t always want to be right in the mix of all that action. Which is why Villa Igiea’s location right on the edge of town is yet another point for the hotel. My room looked out over a windswept tennis court and then just beyond it, a marina with boats bobbing up and down. I had a green room—each guest room has one of three colorways that nod to the hotel’s original interior design. 

My room was on the cozier side, compared to the others I enjoyed around Sicily, but that’s what you get in the big city, right? It was truly no less comfortable, though. And the service was caring, quick, and friendly. I had unceremoniously sliced my finger en route and noticed I was bleeding through my band-aid (TMI?)—they were very quick and kind with the first aid items at the front desk. Yes, I do count myself among their chicest, most graceful guests. 

The breakfast buffet in the Florio restaurant (named after the family who originally owned the property in the early 1900s) has the same vibe as the service—quick, easygoing, lovely. I bopped over to sample a few traditional Sicilian treats and ordered a cappuccino or two, and then on my last morning at the hotel I ordered an omelet and regretted all my previous choices. The eggs were perfect. 

I stayed in one night for a dinner made up of aperitivi on the terrazza and had the best arancini of the trip as well as gorgeous artichokes, caponata, and mini eggplant parmigiana. What you should do is stake claim to a spot on this terrace and get comfortable. You’re staying for everything from the cocktails to the people watching to your second order of the arancini. 

The last thing I want to wax poetic over? The bath products. Rocco Forte’s daughter, Irene Forte, has a skincare line filled with the most delicious-smelling washes and lotions all on offer in the hotel bathrooms. The dreamiest part is that they grow their own ingredients for their bath products on their own organic Sicilian farm. I can still smell the prickly pear body cream. If I’d had space in my luggage, I would have bought full size bottles to bring home with me. 

I appreciate that many of us don’t make our way to Sicily for a city break, but trust me when I say you do want to start (or finish!) your trip in Palermo. It’s a perfect counterpart to the leisurely stay you’ll no doubt have next on the hillside in Taormina or the shores of Cefalu. 

Now, What To Pack?