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Have you ever been on a vacation so perfect, you begin to question whether you should completely change your life and move? Reader, be warned: visit Sea Ranch, and you might start engaging in some dangerous Zillow activity.
I’m no stranger to the allure of the California coast. I drive through or to Big Sur at least twice a year, craving the cooler climate; scent of pine, eucalyptus, and sea; and virtually nonexistent cellular service. This September, I decided to keep driving. Push onward for two hours past San Francisco and even Sonoma, and you’ll reach the promised land: The Sea Ranch Lodge.
Life Partners: Sea Ranch And The Natural Landscape
In order to fully comprehend the beauty of Sea Ranch — both the Lodge and the community itself — it’s crucial to know your history. Long before the inception of the living project itself, this stretch of California coastline was largely untouched, only visited by the indigenous Pomo people for seasonal trips to gather kelp and shellfish. In 1964, the entire 53 acres of Sea Ranch were purchased to be developed as a planned living community. Architect and planner Al Boeke envisioned a community that would not just conserve nature, but that was driven by nature itself. Boeke recruited several architects and notable landscape architect Lawrence Halprin to bring this vision to life. Halprin, after studying and centering the topography, weather, and ecosystem of Sea Ranch, created a master plan to encompass 10 miles of the Sonoma County coastline.
The Lodge is actually one of the oldest buildings in Sea Ranch, originally designed to serve as a cultural hub for the community (it still houses the town’s Post Office). First built in the 60s, the building underwent a renovation a few years ago – and the design ideals feel just as timeless as the rest of Sea Ranch.
I fell in love with the community far before I ever visited or even saw a photo. It was this original plan, a table of Sea Ranch’s principles, that first stole my heart. Yes: Nature predominates, Community, Reforestation. No: Vest pocket nature, Uniformity, Enormous houses. Count me in.
Your New Home On The Coastline
By the time I reached Sea Ranch, my nervous system had been regulated by a few hours of majestic coastal views through Point Reyes, Bodega Bay, and Jenner. The architecture of Sea Ranch was the second thing I noticed (after the vast expanse of the ocean itself). The buildings, rather than imposed upon the landscape, appear to be a part of it: vertically-oriented and thoughtfully embedded to exalt the ocean views, not block them.
I immediately settled into my Lodge Studio, complete with a notebook, fireplace, and a sweeping view of miles-long trails alongside the ocean. (And also: delicious complimentary coffee with a Chemex pourover setup and the Lodge’s 2022 Rosé, which I would later enjoy in a bathrobe, because self-care is important.) Needless to say, my jaw was on the floor for the entirety of my stay. There are no TVs in any of the Lodge rooms – just the entertainment of an indescribable view and a Bang & Olufson speaker, perfect for switching on your favorite playlist or the Lodge’s custom “bathe in nature” meditation. The bathroom is immaculately designed with heated tiles to keep you cozy in the cooler Northern California clime, stocked with Bathing Culture essentials that’ll make you smell as fresh as the ocean air around you.
What Ever Will You Do Amidst Miles Of Untouched Beauty?
The Sea Ranch experience is very choose-your-own-adventure. If you’re the outdoorsy type – and if you’re visiting Sea Ranch, I would hope you are – enjoy miles of private trails pressed up against beaches that feel like yours alone, and long walks embellished with California native wildflowers. Relax on one of the Lodge’s Adirondack chairs and admire the view, or curl up on the lounge couch by the fire, where you can read a book or take advantage of the vinyl collection. Don’t worry, there’s an ocean view from every angle. There isn’t a bad seat in the house; Sea Ranch might just be the California capital of peace and quiet.
The Café serves coffee and breakfast in the mornings and lunch as the day goes on, and you’ll find a perfect burger (along with seasonal craft cocktails and an excellent wine list) at the Bar & Lounge. You might also assemble the most powerful Girl Dinner of all time: herby salad, fries, and a chilled red. Genius vacation mode, activated. If you’re a golfer, book a tee time at The Links, designed by Robert Muir Graves in 1974 and described as “one of the most challenging golf experiences in California.” Work on your game and enjoy a spectacular view from every hole.
Drive just a few miles up the road and you’ll reach the legendary Sea Ranch Chapel, a spiral-shaped, stained glass vision where art meets contemplative meditation. Book a table at the two Michelin star Harbor House Inn – only about an hour’s drive from the Lodge – and enjoy a lengthy, indulgent tasting menu experience. Or just stay put: the Dining Room at the Lodge celebrates local and seasonal ingredients, and sources much of its produce from its own farm. Of course, the wine list is remarkable, and each table has a sweeping, unobstructed view of the ocean and horizon line. Make your reservation at sunset.
During your stay, you might take advantage of the Lodge’s carefully curated programming calendar: catch some live jazz, community yoga, guided hikes and tours of the farm, and workshops on everything from food preservation to astronomy.
What I Brought
My typical packing strategy involves throwing things into a tote as quickly as possible the night before leaving. Fortunately for me, the Sea Ranch essentials are simple: jeans, a cozy sweater, a hat, and a pair of sneakers and sandals were all I really needed. Due to this expert packing strategy I, of course, forgot any proper outerwear, but thrifted a barn jacket in Big Sur on the drive up. (If you pack impractically, you create a wonderful scenario in which you have absolutely no choice but to shop.)
- Jenni Kayne Cashmere Amelia Crewneck
- Goldie Tees Pointelle Crop Cardigan
- PAIGE Sawyer Jean
- J. Crew Denim Barn Jacket
- Le Bon Shoppe Girlfriend Socks
My travel cosmetic case is telling: these are the things I really can’t live without, especially when my vacation M.O. is to chill out and keep it simple.