How to Make the Perfect Manhattan

We all had that one COVID project. Contrary to popular belief, mine wasn't (just) binge-watching Survivor; I also became an avid knitter. All that time in isolation made complicated tasks a balm for the brain, and for MoJen Jenkins, nothing was more pleasurable than perfecting one of her favorite cocktails. 

Though not a bartender or beverage professional, Jenkins was an eager member of the LA Chapter of Women Who Whiskey. As a curious connoisseur of that namesake spirit, she became especially intrigued by the Manhattan — not just for its heady mix of whiskey and vermouth, but for how much its flavors changed depending on which bottles she turned to. "Classic cocktails are the hardest to execute even though they have simple ingredients," Jenkins told me. With each whiskey and vermouth having its own nuances and flavor profiles, she quickly found a world of difference in each of the permutations. 

So began her deep dive into perfecting the Manhattan, tasting her way through bottles and bitters to find the best combinations. When I met her at a whiskey event in the open air of 2023, it was clear to me how little I knew about the cocktail's potential, even having made hundreds of them. So I eagerly soaked up her advice for making the most of each of the drink's components, which are guiding principles rather than fixed rules to account for personal taste. After all, she believes "you can argue about what a Manhattan is 'supposed to be,' but at the end of the day you should be making something you want to drink." 

But take it from me: MoJen's tips have elevated my Manhattan game to a whole new level. So if the drink has a place in your heart, especially these days with autumn chill upon us, read on for some hard-earned, well-tested tips from the field.

STEP ONE: WHICH WHISKEY?

Let's kick things off with Jenkins' only hard and fast rule: rye over bourbon, every time. Though bourbon dominated the whiskey conversation for many years (and became associated with a certain type of mustachioed mixologist), rye is en vogue again for its spicier palette. Bourbon often has notes of walnut, vanilla, and cocoa, but with vermouth already bringing sweetness to the table, rye is a better, more assertive anchor for this drink. 

That said, all ryes are not created equal. According to Jenkins, the rye's mash bill — aka, the list of grains distilled and their relative percentages — is the most important thing to pay attention to. "Rye whiskeys have to be made with at least 51% of rye grain, but that leaves a huge range from 51% to the full 100. Rye grain is what gives the bottle its spice, so the higher that percentage is, the more pronounced the flavor." It should be said that in this context, "spiciness” refers to notes like mint, pepper and cinnamon, not chili-pepper heat levels or alcohol burn. A well-made rye still goes down smoothly, even with its sharper flavors. 

That said, some people prefer their rye subdued, and consulting the mash bill will help you zero in on that. Michter's is popular because of its mellow taste; at 53% rye, that's hardly a surprise. Rittenhouse Rye is a go-to for bartenders because it's 65% blend is a smack-in-the-middle crowdpleaser. On the other hand, the 95% rye James E. Pepper 1776 is a favorite of Jenkins' because of how spicy it is — and similarly, I adore Frey Ranch's Straight Rye, which clocks in at a whopping (and rare) 100%. 

Jenkins' advice, before you get into mixing and matching with other ingredients, is to figure out where you fall on the rye spectrum. Try a few different brands to get a sense of their spice levels, and if you have a favorite, start shopping for bottles with a similar rye percentage. Many brands won't print their mash bills right on the bottle, but a quick Google search will tell you everything you need to know.