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Even if your FYP stays clear of BookTok, you’ve probably grazed Dark Academia, which is both a literary genre and an aesthetic unto itself. If you’ve read The Secret History or watched Dead Poets Society, then you already have a grasp on the school-uniform-but-make-it-chic look (which is best served with a college campus backdrop.) The best-executed Dark Academia outfits require plenty of layers and lots of textured fabrics, so winter is the season where this style shines. Put on a tweed blazer and a pleated wool skirt then pair knee-high socks with a lug sole boot for a modern twist, or go with an elegant brogue for a more traditional look. With a leather satchel and enough plaid (or houndstooth) in various shades of brown, you’ll feel like a Classics major on the way to Advanced Ancient Greek.
The blazer is the centerpiece of a Dark Academia wardrobe and while $1,000-plus Ralph Lauren and Max Mara jackets are to die for, this affordable J.Crew option is such a great piece. You’ll love the gold buttons and multi-color houndstooth print – the only thing it’s missing is elbow patches.
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I prefer the look of a super-fitted blazer, but tight sleeves get uncomfortable during a long day. For a much more amenable oversized fit, try this Anine Bing blazer, which is available in tweed, plaid, houndstooth, and solid colors. Another relaxed-fit option is this corduroy number ($260) available in regular, tall, and petite sizing.
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An androgynous pant is peak DA and you can’t do better than this pleated front silhouette. Timeless houndstooth goes beautifully with a thick knit or a crisp button-down.
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Thick woolen sweaters complement this style in theory, but in actuality, they bunch up in coat arms and overheat in no time. Instead, opt for itch-free 100% cotton in a classic cable-knit design that will keep you warm (but not too warm).
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Wing-tip shoes never go out of style and this cognac pair will elevate every outfit. Show off the decorative perforations with a cropped pant or a skirt. For a more understated look, a loafer stays in the aesthetic a bit more inconspicuously.
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Schoolgirl-esque plaid mini skirts are everywhere, so I’m leaning toward this sophisticated long pleated skirt. It has a deep slit cut on either side (so you can move freely) and pockets so it’s functional as well as eye-catching.
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When it comes to DA outerlayers, you want people to wonder whether you’re wearing your grandfather’s actual coat from his Oxford days. This classic shape is the ideal looseness (not too fitted or too shapeless) so you can pile on the layers underneath.
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Over a white oxford, this sweater vest will transport you to Hampden College (Donna Tartt’s fictional university which is allegedly based on her beloved Bennington). If vests aren’t your style, try the full-sleeve sweater ($278) version.
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If you’re feeling a bit too Sherlock Holmes and not enough all-girls-prep-school-in-the-midst-of-solving-a-scandalous-murder, add in this cute knot headband in red tartan to zhuzh up a shades-of-brown outfit.
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With six different plaid options, you’ll have a hard time narrowing down which colorway of this office-hours-ready shift dress to pair with your knee-high riding boots and silk turtleneck.
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Caramel tan suede is just what you need to complete the look. You’ll be able to tote all your must-haves in this supple satchel that has just enough slouch to keep it from looking too polished.
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Dark Academia has no prerequisites so even if your student status is well behind you, you can still ‘enroll’ in nubby fabrics, worn-in leather, and slouchy suede. I’d be remiss to not wrap up with some book recommendations to help bring you back to your school days: Some of my favorites are Fleur Jaggy’s Sweet Days of Discipline, Magda Szabo’s Abigail, and William Maxwell’s The Folded Leaf.