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The conversation surrounding the demand for Birkin bags is building, as Hermès was hit with a class-action lawsuit filed in California by two customers who claimed the luxury brand is engaged in the “unlawful practice of tying.” This means that shoppers wouldn’t actually be able to purchase a Birkin unless they’ve racked up dollars spent on other shoes and accessories first. This has led to the creation of “Birkin-Bait” reels, which suggest the items to start with, should you eventually wish to make the coveted purchase directly from the company. It’s no surprise that Hermès sales are up by 17% after the first quarter of 2024 — as reported by WWD — with sales of 3.81 billion euros confirmed.
Online resale site Fashionphile stocks many Birkins in mint condition, and Retail Merchandiser and Pricing Specialist Stephanie Gonzalez names the Togo Birkin in size 35 as the most popular silhouette. “This is a bag made out of a high quality grained calfskin that has a tight fine grain, a textile Hermès calls Togo. Its perfect size, durable textile and color make this Birkin the ideal bag. Not too big, not too small, a classic neutral color and textile are key features for this bag’s popularity,” she told The Quality Edit.
When asked which of the retailer’s bags compare in quality of investment and timelessness (many have pointed to The Row’s Margaux as a contender, for example), Gonzalez named the Chanel Caviar Double Flap Bag and Christian Dior Lady Dior Bag as bestsellers and contenders. “Both of these have been our customers’ favorites and both have similar qualities you can find in a Birkin; excellent craftsmanship, high quality textiles, and evergreen silhouettes that make these pieces timeless.”
Gonzalez points to the accessibility of The Row’s Margaux design as being a user-friendly alternative, as it has a wider top and longer handles that easily extend over the shoulder. Curious as to how the Chanel Caviar and Lady Dior styles measure up in functionality, I trekked to Fashionphile’s NYC headquarters in a minimalist, monochromatic look to style and test out the merchandise against a classic Birkin. Ahead, learn what classifies each of these bags as splurge-worthy, and find out just how “Birkin-like” they really are.
The light golden-brown shade of the Togo Birkin is versatile, and the shape is obviously inimitable. While the triangular structure of the bag is such that the top portion really feels like the decorative “access point,” with buckles and hardware to navigate in order to actually retrieve your belongings, the delicate decals are actually what attribute this bag its luxury. As you carefully open and close the flap, which opens into a surprisingly deep compartment, you somehow feel all the more chic. It’s easy to understand the exclusivity that comes with opening your own Birkin.
We like
- The hardware makes the Birkin easily recognizable and is a subtle token of luxury that accents the color of the leather
- The Togo calfskin leather provides quality texture that doesn’t take away from the structure of the bag
- Historically, the resale value has been consistently
We don't like
- Belongings aren’t as easily accessible since it takes a minute to open and close the strap and clasp
- The top handles are stiff, so while you can carry the bag crossbody, it takes away from the allure of emphasizing the Birkin shape as you tote it from the top
I’ve always felt that the Chanel Flap Bag speaks to a very particular aesthetic, which makes it a touch more limiting from a styling perspective. After you decide on colorway, which is majorly indicative of personality, the bag itself feels decidedly femme and polished. If your wardrobe veers more sporty-casual, this may not be the investment bag for you. That being said, it’s a prized possession among fashion insiders and is a really great day-to-night bag. If you remove the strap, you can easily wear it as a clutch for a wedding or after-hours event.
We like
- There are lots of hidden pockets in this bag, including one at the back, and another at the interior flap
- The turnlock is easy and quick to open and close
- The strap is adjustable so you can wear this as a shoulder bag or crossbody
- The signature quilting not only adds to the recognizable traits of the bag, but brings dimension to a simple outfit
- The resale value is increasing with Chanel’s recent price hikes
We don't like
- Since the chain strap is woven with metal, the hardware could be a bit distracting from the rest of your outfit when worn crossbody (or even potentially get caught)
- The chain strap feels a bit less sturdy than a stiff top handle, especially if you pack the bag with lots of belongings to weigh down the main compartment
The Lady Dior is similar to a Birkin in that the metal studs at the bottom act as somewhat of a base, making for a display-like foundation so the bag sits up straight. The style of this bag, however, is potentially the most versatile when it comes to a closet addition. The simple square shape and top handles feel a bit more adaptable to anyone’s wardrobe — whether the wearer is casual or super-polished.
We like
- The accompanying “DIOR” keychain is a fun added touch, and it can be removed if you’d rather place it on a fob
- The quilting is unique and adds dimension
- The top handles bend forward and backward so you can easily reach into your bag without obstruction
- While the bag appears miniature in size, the square shape makes it more spacious than you’d think — you can fit just as many essentials as you can in the Chanel or Birkin
We don't like
- The curved top handles can’t be removed when you’re wearing the bag crossbody style, so they often get in the way, making for a busier look
- Dior’s standing in the luxury market is decidedly lower tier, with less of a return on investment since this bag is not considered a rarity
- The top handles aren’t removable, so the bag can’t be worn as a fancier clutch for black tie events
The Beauty of a Birkin
The truth is, neither the Chanel Caviar Flap Bag or Lady Dior Bag really measure up to the highly covetable Birkin. The resale value is not as impressive, and the quality craftsmanship is unparalleled. Gomez explains why Fashionphile will always keep Birkins accessible to clients: “A classic silhouette, detailed craftsmanship and high quality materials make a Birkin timeless and durable throughout the years,” she says. “We always want to make sure we are offering our customers the best bags, and the best investments such as a Birkin — making this bag a must have in our assortment.”
