Late Checkout: Why Now’s the Time to Visit Eternally Cool Amsterdam

When I first visited Amsterdam as a teenager, of course the beauty was all there – but the city still felt like an escape from reality. It was a refuge for college kids to go and let loose and for sheltered boys to gawk at women in windows. You couldn’t walk down the street without getting a contact high, and it felt less sophisticated than Paris and Brussels, some of its snooty neighbors.

But that was thirty years ago, and now Amsterdam has a whole new vibe. Sure, Amsterdam’s history is a little more colorful than most, but it’s also rife with so much culture – beautiful architecture, flourishing commerce, a vibrant design scene and a dynamic food landscape draw in visitors from around the world. And since it’s such a family-friendly town (bike ride, anyone?) it’s the ultimate European city to tote your tots. I was lucky enough to spend four days with my family this summer, both lakeside and in the city center and cannot wait to return. 

To Stay

While I wouldn’t label the city’s hotel scene as thriving – certainly, there is something for everyone. From the Hotel D’Europe, the old-world glam spot situated in the city center, to the Waldorf Astoria, a surprisingly charming outpost of the global mega brand, to Canal House, a jewel box of hospitality that few know about. If you prefer to stay outside the city, a mere fifteen minute cab ride will land you at Hotel De Durgerdam, a newly opened, tiny lakeside hotel built around its jewel of a restaurant, De Mark. Rooms look like Dutch painting and the surrounding garden is out of a fairytale. 

I stayed at the Dylan, the city’s reigning boutique property that was built in 1632, originally commissioned as a stone theater. When the building burned down a century later, it was sold to a Roman Catholic Church charity until it was released in the 1990’s and reincarnated as a luxury boutique hotel. Expect moody, dark interiors with Scandi (but homey) vibes and an uber-chic black exterior that faces the canals. Editor’s note: many of the rooms’ bathrooms are located up a flight of stairs, so older visitors (or those who have to pee a lot), may not be so charmed by the second level.

To Do

There are certain “musts” in Amsterdam that are worth your money and worth your time. Sure, you can pay fifty bucks for a public canal boat tour and see the city highlights through dirty glass windows while melting in the sun or you can hire an old-fashioned saloon boat for yourself and your travel buddies and experience the canals with class. A throw-back in time, you’ll step onto your own tiny wooden vessel complete with an art deco bar, fresh cut flowers, throw blankets (in case a slight rain wafts in), and a personal captain/tour guide. He’ll point out everything from the city’s skinniest home to the exact spot where Tarentino wrote Pulp Fiction and point out the most expensive canal-front properties. Plus, you can upgrade the service by visiting some of the best restaurants for take-out and then dine-on-deck. 

There are no shortage of beautiful museums in Amsterdam (Van Gogh, for one…ever heard of it?) but my favorite was Rijksmusuem, a culmination of the most famous Dutch painters all under one roof (think: Vermeer, Rembrandt and of course, Van Gogh). Wander around on your own or hire a guide – either way, it’s the perfect way to spend an afternoon. 

A bike tour is a given when visiting this wheels-forward city, but ours was set in the countryside, only twenty minutes outside the city center. Here, we explored charming little towns and long stretches of winding road that we never would have seen had we stayed in town. Tiny churches, gardened school yards and adorable ice cream shops were just some stops along the way.

We did not make it to Sauna Deco, much to my chagrin as my teenage daughters told me they would sooner die. Why? This stunning art deco wellness hub is not only one of the oldest saunas in Amsterdam, it’s set with stained glass windows and interior details from a 1920s Parisian department store, making it a magnificent place to sit and steam. But swimsuits are not allowed (the Netherlanders know no shame), and sauna time is mixed gender, in the nude. While I could have bailed on the fam and made this a “can you believe it” story, alas…I am simply too prude.

‍To Shop

Ask anyone in Amsterdam where to shop and they will tell you the Nine Streets, a strip of boutiques that in my opinion, are best suited to Gen Z (think: adorable brunch spots, LoveShackFancy knock-off stores and trendy, affordable gold jewelry). But older shoppers will have to venture to other neighborhoods for some more grown-up finds. The hipster neighborhood of De Pijp has predictably fun finds like Dukelman, a kitchen shop with pretty tea towels and an endless selection of baking trays and pans - all spread out over four small stores. 

Anouk Beerents is a magical spot to treasure-hunt for antiques. It’s a melange of vintage gilt mirrors, restored by the owner’s team. Go watch them work – the studio doubles as a candlelit showroom. But the vintage stores that are dotted around the city are true treasures. But my favorite was Tomoko “New Vintage”, a shop we tripped upon en route to the Rijksmusuem, helmed by a true fashion maven with a penchant for the early 90s. Her selection is well-curated, in pristine collection, and this editor snagged a boxy metallic snakeskin Dries Van Noten cross-body bag that had (maybe) been worn once. 

To Eat

In a city like Amsterdam, the fun lies in the mix – whether ethnic, Michelin, traditional or trendy, all should be tried. De Mark, just outside the city center, will transport you to a lakeside editorial spread. Nestled in a 17th century structure that’s been updated with jewel tones and outdoor dining, the food is rustic and excellent with a natural wine selection pulled from the region. For an elevated meal like no other, De Kas grows its produce in its own greenhouse, which also serves as a stunning, glassed-in restaurant. This is your fancy meal of the trip – it’s prixe fixe, Michelin starred, and pretty formal (expect things like almond soup and polenta shortcake).

Amsterdam’s huge Indonesian population means that you also came for some spicy satay. And Cafe Kadjik is some of the best food from the region that you will find (anywhere). We had Indian Mackerel and Javan Meatballs, all to the backdrop of 90s hiphop. And if you are looking for a kinda-sexy spot with a good looking Dutch crowd, Zoldering is a great choice. Serving modern cuisine, it’s a nice night-out with insanely fresh food and a cool scene. And be sure not to miss on-the-go-options like Zero Zero. Here, sandwiches get a healthy bent with fresh fermented sourdough and imported Italian fixins’. The line is worth the wait!

What I Packed

Comfy shoes are a must when you’re biking and you might as well look cool while you ride. I love these Rick Owens hightops that are fun with summer dresses.

SPF is a non-negotiable when I travel (and on days when I don’t travel, for that matter) and Vacation’s mineral sunscreens absorb beautifully while offering the right amount of protection. 

I live for a great travel tote (and monogramming is my porn). This Paraval carry-on is classic, and I have my eye on the accompanying suitcase. 

I go super light on makeup when I travel but my non-negotiables are my Monika Blunder foundation and her beautiful lip oils. 

Unlike central Europe, the Netherlands can still be a bit chilly in summer, so my new Sacai short-sleeved bomber came with. 

As kind of a talisman (if you will), this Claire V coin pouch comes on all my trips - it’s filled with crystals a friend gave me one year for my birthday.