Late Checkout: Why Milan Is In The Spotlight

Milan is not the secondary city it once was. While tourists have been flocking to destinations with bigger and better draws (Rome! Florence!), Milan was quietly re-inventing itself as the true capital of cool, crowning itself as the most sophisticated city in Europe. Yes, I said it. Fashion week used to be “all about Paris” (according to a former print editor I was traveling with), but she admits that Milan’s newfound cultural allure has the fashion flock happily extending their time in Europe. 

As a true walkable city (unlike Rome), you can cover a lot of ground in two days. But layer in the unbeatable shopping, seeing some of the lesser known but totally worthwhile museums and sites, and of course, making time to sip an espresso at one of the uber posh “bars” means you need to simply spend more time here. And since the north part of the country is known to have more rain, cozying up with a nice Negroni isn’t the worst idea. Below, some not-to-be-missed spots in my new favorite Italian city. 

To Stay

The great thing about the Milan hotel scene is that there may actually be something for everyone. I’ll start with my favorite: Portrait Milano. With outposts in other major Italian cities, this one is housed in an old seminary, is owned by the Ferragamo family and feels like stepping into a 73 room old-world Italian home, albeit the chicest one ever. Coffee table books are stacked on every surface, mid-century furniture punctuate the halls, and of course, photographs line every wall (in the elevator you can even snap your own digital “portrait” which will be on view for the day). Cute.

For those who love 1960s Italy (and really, who doesn’t), Casa Baglioni is a true throwback. From top to bottom, this boutique spot does not waiver in design ethos. In fact, you might forget where you are at times, as its “Italian New Wave” vibe is a real throw-back. Think Sophia Loren, matching accessories, modernism – and a Michelin star restaurant in the lower level!

If your motto is “the smaller, the better” your best bet is Casa Brivio. To be fair, Milan is not known for its wealth of boutique properties but Brivio is as close as you’ll get to a quaint, charming, unassuming property that draws in those who truly appreciate the sophistication of understated Italian design. A 15th century palazzo, the property has evolved throughout Renaissance to Neoclassical periods, and was ultimately bombed during WWII, inspiring a makeover in the 70s that lends itself toward the Rationalism movement. The iconic interiors brand Cassina helped to shape the property into what it is today – simple, classic and justifiably Milanese. 

Principe di Savoy (part of the Dorchester collection), is a glam choice for those who want luxury. Once favored by the fashion crowd who came to Milan for Fashion Week, the hotel now caters to an affluent international scene, with the coveted Presidential Suite (which comes with an epic private pool), always booked. The lounge is a real scene – so be sure to saddle up to the bar for some amazing people watching. 

To See

Listen, the Duomo is nothing to shrug off. As a Jew who loves churches more than most Catholics (I even have a huge Markus Brunetti photograph of a Welch cathedral in my dining room), I always find myself in one – wherever I am. And the sheer magnitude and capacity of the Duomo is truly something to see. 

Interior design aficionados will shed a tear in this city. As a hub for major design firms (see: Dimore Studio), there are a handful of outstanding villa museums that showcase the splendor of Milano’s past. My favorite was Villa Necchi, a tucked-away villa, only a few blocks away from The Portrait. Here you’ll see the best of it; smoky antiqued mirror, heavily-veined beige marble, and vintage Gucci vanity sets – all from the 1930s.  

The famous La Scala Opera House was sadly under construction while I was in Milan but I got to peek inside. Let’s just say it’s the reason why so many hotels, coffee bars and restaurants have red accents, a nod to the historic theater’s famous hue. 

To Shop

D’Adda, an appointment-only shop tucked away in a residential building, feels like true insider knowledge. With a small (and pricey) collection designed by socialite and fashion fixture Coco Brandalini D’Adda, you’ll find vintage-inspired pieces with upcycled silks and trims that are truly unique (meaning, you won’t show up at the party in the same outfit as anyone else). 

La Double J, the fantastical brand with American JJ Martin at the helm, has made a splash in Milan and the States alike, with her bold prints that want to be on every vacation – whether it’s Capri or Martha’s Vineyard. Editor’s note: Martin also had a hand in designing Passalaqua, the Lake Como hotel, currently voted #1 in the world.

If you die over maximalist home design, you surely know the twice-yearly produced Cabana tome that’s edited by Martina Mondadori who has close ties to the Italian interiors community. And Milan is home to their only brick and mortar, a tiny shop that boasts a highly curated collection of tabletop, chunky jewelry and small furniture that represents the growing brand’s elevated bohemian aesthetic. 

I was told that even those who shop at Prada and Gucci hit up Wait and See every once in a while to check out the store’s in-house brand that’s vintage-inspired (in fact, you’d be shocked to know that everything is contemporary). Quirky, campy and down-right fun, here you can find anything from a pair of knickers (one hangs in the doorway) to a brat green mohair sweater to bejeweled kitten heels. Sometimes designer duds aren’t the only party flex. 

To Eat

While many claim that Milan has “the worst food in all of Italy,” anyone who actually lives there will correct you by quickly telling you that “it’s actually the best.” With more Michelin stars than many other cosmopolitan cities, and a fish market that impresses even the Japanese, Milanese cuisine is a true star in the north. Specialties include saffron risotto and vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce). 

When Prada purchased Pasticceria Marchesi, the 200 year old Milanese cafe in the city’s fashion district, people were curious, to say the least. The famously sea foam space retained the cafe’s classic gold leaf logo and crystal and mirror backed shelves that display the brand’s beloved pastries, cakes and chocolates. 

For times when you want insane seafood (and need a risotto break), the Sardinian Trattoria Del Pescatore is the spot. Their star dish is the Lobster Catalana; boiled lobster with olive oil and lemon. Ask for the after-dinner serving of fresh pecorino with a shot of iced Mirto (Sardinian liqueur). 

Lu’s Bar is hardly a secret but when you want to be him, it’s still the place to go. While it looks like the chicest greenhouse known to man, it’s actually a fairly romantic spot with a garden and outdoor seating. Come for the scene, stay for the epic Sicilian fare.