Late Checkout: 48 Hours in Palma de Mallorca, the Historical Gem in the Western Mediterranean

Ah, summer…that time of the year when everyone’s favorite question is, “Got any trips planned?”

In a hopeful attempt to avoid the wild panic that comes with the hottest season of the year, we—at The Quality Edit—decided to join forces with the curatorial travel wizards (experts) over at Essentialist, a private members’ service for passionate travelers. Leveraging guidance from over 200 of the most prominent voices in the travel + lifestyle editorial space, Essentialist is one of our favorite resources for true immersion when we’re looking to book our next trip.

We spoke with CEO + Founder Joan Roca about the “Pearl of the Mediterranean,” also known as Palma de Mallorca, one of Spain’s resort island hubs (and a must-not miss for your next vacation). Joan’s suggestions were so alluring, one of our editors has already booked a trip to visit in the fall (this is not an exaggeration).

Get ready to pack your bags.

About Palma de Mallorca

Palma is a mid-sized city within the tourist destination of Mallorca (which you may have seen on Bravo’s Below Deck: Med). It’s easily walkable and has one of the biggest old towns in the Mediterranean. It’s one of those cities that you can best experience by walking through it (you can literally walk everywhere or cycle as well if your feet are tired!). The city has an extraordinary cathedral and medieval old town, facing the sea along a promenade that connects the city from one end to the other. 

Within it, you’ll find a ton of little restaurants and shops, celebrating all of the different cultures that have come through, including indigenous Mallorcans, Arabs, Romans, and Christians—there’s a little bit of something for everyone. However, even with all of these diverse influences and tourism, it is not hard to find yourself sharing space with local Mallorcans and experiencing the depth of the city.  

While it might be tempting to visit in the peak summer seasons like July and August, the best times of year to visit are May, June, September, and October. It’s absolutely beautiful.

To Stay

Sant Francesc | A stylish hotel in an old palace, which is quite central. It has the vibe of very understated luxury with beautiful design, overlooking a gorgeous patio with a rooftop. It is a perfect choice for a historical building that has been well-renovated with great service. It’s in the heart of the city so you’ll be excellently situated. There is also a great restaurant that I love called Quadrat.

Rooftops are not very common in Palma, so the Sant Francesc is pretty extraordinary for locals and tourists alike.

Can Bordoy | A very romantic property in the old town. It’s an old building that used to host large, well-known families from Mallorca. Inside, there’s a garden, making it one of the most romantic hotels. You’ll totally lose sense of the face that you’re in the center of the city, completely overtaken by the whimsical ambiance. Their amazing Botànic restaurant is connected to the garden, utilizing organic, in-season vegetables, making it Palma’s first plant-forward restaurant.

While it’s located in a big square facing a big church, it’s on a narrow street in a narrow alleyway (which is very Moorish). You’ll walk by, thinking that there is nothing to see, only to discover a big patio and beautiful garden behind its entrance. You’re also close to the main shopping streets and the art district, where there are a few galleries and hotels. The best part? You’re only steps from the sea.

Calatrava Boutique Hotel | It’s right next to the Cathedral in the old town, standing as one of the two hotels in Palma that actually faces the sea. It also has a small rooftop, and many or most of the rooms are facing the sea, which is a must. It’s a really small property—probably 10-12 rooms at the most. There’s also a lovely breakfast that is served on the rooftop. 

I highly recommend this hotel if you really want the sea. This will give you that (versus the other two, which are more in the middle of the old town). It’s more affordable, albeit a bit less on the luxurious side, but it maintains a local vibe (given that it is run by a local hotelier). 

To Do

Palma is called “The Pearl of the Mediterranean” for a reason. Not only is it a city with an old town facing the sea, but it is also incredibly pedestrian and filled with a variety of things to do. From shopping in the old town to eating a diverse array of cultural cuisines to visiting museums curated by Mallorcan families to gliding down the medieval, Arab-style narrow streets, Palma is as dynamic as it is peaceful. In fact, every 10 meters you will find yourself in a beautiful spot. How many cities can offer that?

Some of our favorite ways to explore the city at Essentialist…

Explore Santa Catalina, a slightly more modern neighborhood that used to be for tailors, but is not filled with lots of bars, night life, and cute stores—all the while facing the sea. It’s a more dynamic part of town, where you can see all of the different cultures and nationalities (you’ll find a tone of Swedish expats in Santa Catalina, so there is a whole wave of Swedish influence!). It’s a great place to go in the afternoon or evening if you’re looking for great restaurants or beautiful stores from designers and modern artisans. 

It's on the “hipper” side of things—definitely a different vibe from the old town, which tends to be more traditional. 

Another neighborhood is Portitxol, which is a very cute, local neighborhood that is walking distance from Palma. It is completely facing the sea, formerly used as fisherman harbors. There are lots of little restaurants, and it’s where Mallorcan locals go for food (especially seafood).

It manages to give you the feeling of being completely out of town even though it’s only about 20 minutes away from old town Palma. It’s also the perfect place to take an evening summer stroll. 

In general, we have good weather, which makes people more inclined to be outside. We have a ton of foreigners and a lot of people who are living here and working in the boat industry, so there is always this energy of people coming in from abroad (yes, I mean there is always an element of nightlife). 

The city always feels alive, however don’t expect standard hours of going out. It’s become very common for people to go out in the afternoon (Think: lunch and post-lunch) vs. before, Spain used to be more night-focused. We have a Tardeo, which connects the afternoon with the evening, which is a more relaxed approach to “going out.” Basically, at 10pm, everyone is ready to go to bed.

To See

Mercat de Santa Catalina | In the center of Santa Catalina, filled with great places to eat. You will see Mallorcan cuisine, which is seafood and some local vegetables. In Mallorca, people value things that are grown locally. The synonym for “good” in Mallorcan is “Mallorcan,” aka If it’s from Mallorca, then it means it’s good. Everything that comes from outside is considered less tasty and so on. The heritage of being on an island is that they do it best.

Es Baluard | A beautiful building in an amazing location. Although it is a museum, it actually doesn’t have too many exhibitions, but it’s worth visiting because the space is so stunning and elevated in front of the sea. There is a restaurant that is about to be open, which will be the best place to see the sun set. Everyone is waiting for it to reopen! It’s one of the best locations in Palma.

Fundació Miró | Famous painter and sculptor Joan Miró used to live in Mallorca, so he had a whole studio here. You can visit his atelier, which is really breathtaking. When you learn about how he did things, you realize that his radically simple paintings were the results of years of research, deep spiritual work, and profound thinking. He was one of the most influential Spanish artists.

The building itself was designed by Rafael Moneo, who is a top Spanish architect. It’s a little outside of the city,  so I’d recommend driving there or taking a cab (it’s only 10 minutes away by car). It’s really worth a visit if you like the arts and Miró. There’s also a beautiful sculpture garden.

To Eat

Rosa Vermuteria | This place is fun, hidden, and always crowded, so you feel like you don't have space (which is what makes it so fun). The service is great and the food is great. 

You’ll get Vermouth (Vermuteria), have some olives with anchovies, onion, on a stick, tortilla patatas—all tapas that you’d expect from Spain. They also have a daily special, which is more traditional food. It’s a place that’s very near Essentialist’s office and we like to go there. It’s more Spanish than Mallorcan, but so good. I highly recommend it!

El Camino | Relatively new, this restaurant has a somewhat different concept. It is one long bar and has become extremely popular in the past few years. You can expect lots of tapas, a great wine list, and a very lively environment. It’s super informal—although a bit more elevated than the Vermuteria. The food is really good, which means it’s super hard to get reservations. 

Some of my favorites: Octopus, croquettes, an elevated version of patatas bravas, and tortillas as well. Lots of wine from the island (which are gaining more popularity than they used to). Right by an alleyway from the Borne street (which is the main street connecting the old town to the sea).

Bodega Moray | Bodega comes from places that used to serve wine from a barrel. This place represents that period. It’s from the 50s, but has managed to keep on keeping on. Bodega Moray has this familial energy, like a cute hole-in-the-wall. It’s a great place to go for an early aperitivo (not necessarily for dinner). Good wine, little tapas, and maybe go for lunch somewhere else. 

Some favorites: Escalivada—roasted peppers, aubergines, onions, served as a salad ...they will put salted cod on it. It’s not cold, not warm, but a salad, and definitely worth trying. They do the variats, which is something local Mallorcans order in a restaurant, containing a combination of tapas—it’s super typical Mallorcan (and not necessarily for everyone!).

To Drink

Bar Nicolas | Only 10 min from our office. It has a terrace, great cocktails, good service, and you will find local people and some tourists. Local people will come after work, so it gets super busy and noisy after work, particularly on Thursdays and Fridays.

C’an Joan de s'Aigo | Where people will go in the afternoon to have chocolate, ice cream, or local pastries. This place is super local, and will give you a sense of what people actually do. Families, couples, and kids queue outside. There are three locations in Palma, and it’s super authentic to the city. It’s our version of the afternoon tea, but not so sophisticated.  

5 THINGS YOU CAN’T MISS DURING YOUR PALMA VISIT:

1. Mallorca Cathedral in Palma Old Town | Experience a harmonious blend of religious landmarks like the Mallorca Cathedral, alongside stunning architecture, including elegant courtyards, vibrant squares, and majestic official buildings.
2. Develop your Palma Palate | Stroll through the historic city stopping along the way at Santa Catalina Market to sample a variety of Spanish delicacies, from sweet to savory. Enjoy bites of typical tapas such as a Spanish tortilla, croquettes, jamon serrano, a typical Palma almond ice cream, and even a taste of vermouth.
3. Mallorca by the Sea | The best way to get to know the beauty of the island is to set sail for a day on the water. Choose the perfect ‘llaut’ boat to explore secluded calas and snorkel in the Mediterranean.
4. Take the train from Palma to Soller | For a day trip outside of Palma, hop on the 1912 wood-paneled train to Soller, and experience village life in the Tramuntana mountains.
5. Sunset and Sundowners at Mar de Nudos | Back in Palma, in the heart of Palma's new marina, this sophisticated hotspot is ideal for sipping copas after a long day exploring.