Three Days in the English Countryside With the Kids

As an American city-dwelling parent, I consider the Holy Grail long weekend destination to be one that strikes a balance between grown-up-fun and kid-fun. Some beautiful scenery and great food both frosting on top of this hard-to-find cake. I’ve found a few local spots, of course, like our regular weekends in Santa Barbara and Palm Springs, but one of the very best in recent memory was a bit further afield: the English countryside. We spent a few days in London first (at the very family-friendly and centrally located Ampersand Hotel, highly recommended with kids in tow). And then around the same time that most local parents were fleeing the city with their kids, my son and I hopped on the train headed for Castle Cary, where some of our very close friends happen to live. 

And what I learned over five days there—and from my friends’ expertise—was that Somerset is easily a perfect-balance long weekend destination from London for kids and their grown ups.

This part of the English countryside felt easygoing and beautiful with its cozy English pubs and sweet country roads and rolling hills and manicured gardens and historic estates. And now’s the time to go with so much newness in the area that doesn’t seem to have overwhelmed (and hopefully never will) the local charm.

To Stay 

When (not if) I go back, I will beg, borrow, and steal my way into a room at The Newt…Or just book it online. The Newt is spectacular, with the hotel carefully updated from what was originally Hadspen House built in 1687. And it's beautiful and welcoming enough that it holds its own amongst the gardens, meticulous and diverse grounds, great food, wine, cool gallery, and adorable shop, which anywhere else would steal the spotlight. 

Now for the kid-friendliness. We had two eight year old boys with us, so I didn’t even consider taking them into the hotel’s Story of Gardening exhibit. To be totally honest, I wasn’t convinced I’d be all that into it myself. But it was so cool, so interactive, and so interesting that we had a hard time tearing the kids away from it at the end. 

Some of the other best hotels in the area are the cool Holm Somerset’s 7 new-ish rooms above its well-established restaurant; the Three Horseshoes which is also tiny and also positioned for a gastronomic getaway; and 8 Holland Street in Bath and which is both an art gallery and a guesthouse. 

In the nearby Cotswolds, I have an incredibly soft spot for both Calcot Manor & Spa and Thyme for perfect weekend stays.

To Do 

Another seemingly grown up thing that was a massive win with the kids? Hauser & Wirth Somerset. Hauser & Wirth, of worldwide contemporary art fame, has a rambling property in Somerset with a couple of shops, a lovely cafe and restaurant, an art gallery, and a sculpture garden. We had breakfast here with the understanding that we’d hustle through the gallery en route to a local fair (complete with bounce house and Mr Whippys). But an hour into strolling the grounds, not a single iPad request had been made. The kids loved the sculpture garden, making up stories about how this one was a rocket ship and that one was a dangerous planet. It was beyond a pleasure to roam around with them and see their imaginations light up. 

Everyone of every age will enjoy the way-better-than-a-zoo wild animal experience at Longleat Safari Park. It was actually the first wildlife park of its kind outside of the African continent and has been open since 1966. And Longleat House, still the family home of the 8th Marquess and Marchioness of Bath (whatever that means) was built in the mid-1500s and is open for visitors. We did not go inside this time, but I definitely would because it looks glorious. 

Likewise, all ages will adore a visit to the detailed and super cool Haynes Motor Museum. The draw for me? The karting section of the museum’s test circuit track. I may not look like a speed demon, but… They also do tons of seasonal programming for families and car-lovers, so check out their site or Instagram before you go to see what’s on.  And, if you’re a Soho House devotee, there’s also Babington House out here in Somerset.

To Eat 

For excellent cocktails and a lovely dinner in an old, converted chapel, head to At the Chapel in the town of Bruton. This was our one night out sans kids, but we could have easily brought them. (It skews adult, but you know your kids…some will be down for that and some won’t.) 

The Lion in West Pennard, a little town around the corner from Glastobury, is a gloriously classic English countryside pub (at least as far as this Californian is concerned) with perfect and comforting food and a stay-awhile vibe. Stop for breakfast at Middlewick, a farm since the 1600s that was partially converted to a hotel and restaurant in the 1980s. The food is delicious and easy. It’s very casual and the views out over the farm are so calming. 

In Glastonbury itself, you’ll find one of the best meals we had on our entire stay (in both London and Somerset, to be honest) at Queen of Cups. You’ll want to order more pita, trust me. We went with the “Queen’s Feast,” as decision-weary parents, and I highly recommend that you do the same. 

How to Get There & When to Go

From London, it’s an easy train ride from Paddington out to Castle Cary or Bath, depending on where you’ve decided to stay. If you’re flying in, I have a suggestion: from Heathrow, hop in a car headed to Somerset but make a stop for lunch or tea at Heckfield Place to jumpstart that countryside vibes. Then, make a firm landing at your hotel in the afternoon. 

In my mind, England is always a good idea. But, of course, summertime is much more likely to have promising weather. The winter is for your cozy, fireside holiday whereas summer is going to be a sunnier, more picnics on the lawn type vacation. The shoulder seasons of spring and fall may be the perfect time to go for better pricing and fewer tourists, but bet on unpredictable weather.