A Long Weekend in Nosara, Costa Rica’s ‘Green Season’

In full transparency, Costa Rica was not on my list. The only people I knew who were going a few years ago were my most outdoorsy friends and avid surfers, and I’m simply neither of those things. But in the last few years, Costa Rica has begun to appeal to those of us who, for example, do not own hiking-specific shoes. Once we snob-adjacent travelers got word of, say, the lovely ranches out in the jungle and luxury resorts dotting the coast, it started to have a renewed draw. So, I set out to find out for myself… by myself. I had a week to play with in early June (when my son was already going to be away with his father), so I went for it. I was warned that June is ‘green season’ which is an adorable way to reframe ‘rainy season’ but everyone encouraged me to go anyway. The fun is still fun, you’ll just get a little wet. And who has ever said no to waiting out a little rain in the spa? 

Not to mention, Costa Rica’s massive uptick in popularity means that when you go in high season you are both paying for it and you’re planning well in advance. In my work as a travel advisor, I have seen my clients lose out on tour after tour because we’ve tried to book less than two weeks out. Whereas in the green season, I arrived with very little planned and had everything to choose from. I booked one of the most fun activities—off-roading with Tico Tours—the night before. 

I split my week between Papagayo—up north, near Liberia airport, land of familiar resorts—and Nosara. When I go back, it will be for Nosara. That’s not to say anything negative about Papagayo, because I had a ball. But Nosara is the exact dreamy, dirt-road, woo-woo surf-and-sand haven that I, for one, had in mind. And boy did I hit that dirt road hard, in the interest of knowing what to do next time and what to tell you to do. 

Where To Stay 

I stayed at, and loved, the Gilded Iguana. It’s one “block” from the beach, which I put in quotes because it’s a tree-covered dirt road that’s as charming and rustic as ‘blocks’ come. The Gilded Iguana is ideal for families, couples, and groups of friends. The vibe is very warm and welcoming, the service is smiling, and the food is excellent. I was there during the start of the Copa America tournament, which was on constantly in the front restaurant and encouraged such a fun sense of community. The pool is small but perfect as you’re here for the ocean. My room was huge and while the property itself is compact, each room feels spaced out from the others. And most have one of my favorite amenities—an outdoor shower. 

The other two that I recommend are Sendero and Harmony Hotel. Both are very family-friendly, but the spaces are a bit more design-forward and grown up, so do with that what you will. They are both in perfect locations for the beach that has calmer waves, whereas the beach nearest to The Gilded Iguana has bigger waves. That said, it’s an easy walk (or tuk tuk ride!) everywhere. 

The Harmony Hotel is a Nosara icon and I completely understand why, with its bungalows and rooms and indoor/outdoor buildings dotted through its own mini-jungle. I came here specifically for the spa, which I highly recommend.

And if you don’t stay at Sendero, at least go for dinner and drinks. It’s delicious and a fabulous place to while away a long, warm, tropical evening. It’s here that I grilled the bartenders for all of their tips around town. Their words of wisdom, below. 

What To Do 

First, each of the above hotels offers in-house surf lessons and there’s also the fabulous Coconut Harry’s in town, who can accommodate lessons (with rash guard and board) for every level. I know this because I WhatsApp’d them a number of times to make sure they understood just how beginner I was. My surf lesson with Maria from Coconut Harry’s was undoubtedly a highlight of my trip. And that’s not just because I was able to get up on the board…twice! 

I also highly recommend going out on a boat for some snorkeling, which I’m told is fantastic around Nosara. Unfortunately, my snorkeling trip was canceled due to some choppy waves thanks to the rain. What did I do to console myself? Booked another massage, of course. 

The mom-and-pop shops around town are not, as I had cynically and rudely expected, limited to crystals and various types of incense. I apologize! I was so wrong, they are so cool with cute clothes, swimsuits, and really nice locally made skincare. I found the best smelling anti-aging moringa face cream at Soli that I am quickly making my way through. 

To get around Nosara, you’ll want to rent a moto or a small car or, ideally, a 4x4. They are available from rental desks all over town. Again, I know this because I did not do that and I regretted it. I frequented the tuk tuk stop in front of my hotel, but I would have loved bumping around town in a rugged, dusty 4x4 in little more than a swimsuit and wrinkled linen cover up. 

Where To Eat 

I will start with the bartender’s recommendations because, if you’re anything like me, you consider their word to be akin to gospel. Everyone and all of their friends will tell you to go to Coyol up in the hills for one of Nosara’s famous sunsets. (I have it on good authority that it’s great!) but the bartenders gave the edge to its neighbor Huacas. It was a cloudy, rainy evening when I was hoping to go, so I can’t weigh in on either. They told me to go check out Jungle Cocktail Bar and Elixir, as well. I went to the latter and can confirm, it’s fabulous. 

My personal recommendations include the otherworldly breakfast burrito from Organico (this coming from an LA native) as well as the tuna carpaccio from Howler’s. I spent my one unforgettable sunset at La Luna, right on the beach, enjoying a glass of rose and a flatbread and my Kindle. I cannot recommend it enough on a clear night. 

Good to Know

Here are some of my pro tips from my own trip and from planning others’—

First, fly into Liberia Airport. Alaska Airlines has a direct flight from LA to Liberia that’s easy. 

You have two options for getting to Nosara—flying on a local hopper plane or driving around 3.5 hours. The roads are paved and fine for about 2 hours and 45 minutes of the drive. After that, you spend 45 minutes being rocked around your overly air conditioned van. That’s not to discourage you from driving, just to warn you as I would have enjoyed being armed with that information.

Should you want to stay closer to Liberia either en route to or from Nosara, I recommend the Casa Chameleon in Las Catalinas or the Four Seasons or Andaz in Papagayo. 

In Costa Rica, cash is king. Make sure to stop by the ATM and worry not, they accept USD. 

As a woman traveling alone, safety is paramount. At almost every turn, I felt safe. I even made the truly amateur mistake of walking between restaurants alone at night (the roads are not well-lit) and did not worry about my safety. The one time I did worry was in a tuk tuk in Nosara when the driver asked lots of questions about myself including the nerve-wracking “well, where’s your boyfriend?” For any woman traveling alone, the answer to that is always “I’m meeting him back at the hotel!” (Or wherever you’re headed.) 

Finally, rainy season is hot, it’s just also wet and cloudy. Even a lightweight rain jacket would be too much. I walked around in a swimsuit and coverup everywhere, even in the rain. 

What to Pack 

Birkenstock’s Arizona Essentials – I brought 3 pairs of sandals and wore only these. Waterproof, mud-proof, off-roading-proof, highly recommend. 

Everlane V-Neck One Piece – There are times for cute swimsuits and then there are surfing lessons. This one is for the latter, but is also cute enough for the former. 

Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen – I’ve joined the chorus on this one! This Unseen SPF 40 is amazing for the face. I use their PLAY Everyday Lotion for the body. 

Sawyer Premium Insect Repellent – I’m usually the one to get bit the least, but here I was eaten alive. I especially slathered it on before dinner and bed. ‍

Levi’s 501 High Rise Shorts – If you’d like the full picture, I basically lived in my Everlane one-piece, these shorts, and my waterproof Birks. 

‍Ciao Lucia Dress – And in the evenings for dinner, I slipped on my favorite dress from Ciao Lucia. The exact one is no longer available, but they are all so good.