Late Checkout: How To Spend A Week in Porto and Lisbon

If you are someone who has browsed social media in the past year, you have probably come across an astounding amount of content featuring Portugal—more specifically, its two major cities, Porto and Lisbon. After being inundated with travel porn for months, I knew I had to explore the region myself, so I got my girlfriends together and we set off on the ultimate Portuguese adventure. 

We were fortunate enough to meet up with a friend that had spent a month working abroad in Portugal, and had experienced enough of the country to give us the best recommendations for food, drinks and shopping. Over the course of our travels, we found that Portugal is home to some of the nicest locals, is one of the easiest cities for tourists to integrate into, and is one of the cheapest adventures you can partake in. 

Porto:

Thanks to the recent buzz surrounding travel to Portugal this year, I was able to put together an itinerary for my stay with information compiled from a dozen friends of mine that had made the journey themselves, in addition to my internet findings from recommendations from travelers past. Our first stop was Porto, a beautiful city situated on the banks of the Douro River. There is plenty to do along the Ribiera, such as shopping and dining at authentic Portuguese restaurants, but the real gems are found deeper (or higher) in the city.  

To Stay

Portugal has some of the nicest and cheapest accommodations I have had the pleasure of staying in. We had a pretty large group, making the best option a week-long apartment rental. Most rentals there are operated more like that of a hotel, with provided cleaning services and other amenities. We stayed in a rental called Mouzinho 160, conveniently located near some of  Porto’s most popular spots, and an easy walk to the riverside. The two-bedroom unit was newly renovated and had a full kitchen, dining room, and huge living area; it was almost like we were living abroad. 

If you are looking for a more traditional hotel accommodation, The Rebello is a true 5-star experience. Situated across the Douro River in Vila Nova de Gaia, it’s a quick stroll or 5-minute taxi ride from Porto. Inside the hotel you’ll be greeted by beautiful mid-century modern design and a picture perfect view of the river and the city. The hotel has everything you could need inside, like a rooftop bar, restaurant, gorgeous spa and ancient roman style baths. Although we didn’t stay at The Robello, we did make sure to stop by the spa, which was one of the most relaxing and affordable spa day experiences I’ve had. We booked four tranquility massages, a steal at €100 each, which gave us full access to the roman baths and sauna. There are also other treatments available like facials, body exfoliation and more. 

To Do

There’s no need for a workout while you’re in Porto. Simply climb the millions of stairs that lead to the Dom Luís bridge, leading you across the river between Vila Nova de Gaia and Porto. Although it can be quite a trek, the view from the bridge is well worth it. If you’re feeling a bit too tired to make the journey back on foot, you can take the gondola back over to the other side. While walking around the city, make sure to stop in Aramarte for handmade clay souvenirs. The shop owner shared that her husband is the artist behind all the adorable, handmade jewelry, sculptures and dishes. I ended up taking home some gorgeous small plates and traditional Portuguese tiles that can be found on most of the buildings in Porto. 

Our group loves the water, so we decided to plan a day at Piscina de Mares, a natural water pool overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It’s a short taxi ride from Porto, and if you use the Bolt app (the Portuguese version of Uber) it shouldn’t be more than a couple bucks. Another great outdoor experience is the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal, a sprawling park with intricate landscaping and views of the whole city. If you stop by, you’ll probably be greeted by the peacocks that live there. 

If you happen to be near Vila Nova de Gaia during sunset, be sure to visit Jardim do Morro where everyone listens to music and buys drinks from the local vendors to watch the sun set over Porto. After a day of exploring, stop by BASE bar for yummy cocktails in an open air environment. There are plenty of tourists and locals to meet against the backdrop of the old city.

To Eat

I’m not sure exactly what I was expecting of the culinary scene in Portugal, but it ended up exceeding whatever bar I had set. The Portuguese are known for their brunches, and they have a right to be. At Hakko, you have to try the Turkish eggs, which are poached in a creamy, spiced-yogurt and tomato sauce served alongside a loaf of the most delicious bread I’ve ever had. Época is known for their fresh sourdough bread and dip assortments which range from whipped feta with honey, chili flakes and thyme to the most mouth watering burrata you’ve ever had. If you get hungry for a snack, pop into any of the local bakeries and try the famous Portuguese Pastel de Nata, an egg custard tart pastry that locals have been perfecting for generations. 

For dinner, try one of our favorite spots, Mistu, which we found while roaming the streets without a reservation. We were charmed by the modern, lofted interior, snagging the last walk-in table. We started with cocktails which were skillfully made with fresh ingredients—my favorite being the Porn Star Martini made with maracujá juice. To eat, we started with oysters and the white fish ceviche before moving on to the beef tenderloin and grilled sea bass. If you’re in the mood for something more authentic, try Muro do Bacalhau, a Portuguese spot on the river that serves updated takes on classics. Our favorite dishes were the duck fried rice and cod fish garnished with crispy fried potato hay. While at Muro, make sure to try Porto’s world renowned Port wine. 

On our last night in Porto, we stopped at Muu Steakhouse, recommended to us by a group of British travelers during a wine tour, claiming it to be the best dining experience in Porto. Muu looks like a traditional high class steak house when you walk in, immediately being treated to a complimentary glass of their Muu branded champagne before being led to your table. Once there, the fabulous wait staff helped us pick a bottle of wine, which they then decanted in front of us. They will also help you choose the right cut of steak (we went with two skirt steaks for the four of us) and the right amount of sides. Everything was perfectly portioned, the service was immaculate and the food was spectacular. Every time we left dinner we were full and happy.  

Lisbon:

After a whirlwind trip to Porto, we hopped on the train for a quick and easy journey to Lisbon. As we left the rich, old-world charm and color of Porto, I expected more of that in Lisbon, however, what I noticed throughout the trip is that Lisbon was reminiscent of my home city of Brooklyn. The culture, food scene, shopping and even the designs in Lisbon were young and vibrant, but everything seemed to have a little bit of grit—which funny enough made me feel at home. I was excited to explore this big, bad older sister of Porto. 

To Stay:

After finding success staying in apartment-style housing in Porto, we took our chances on a similar place in Lisbon called Residentes Áurea. Upon entering, we were greeted by a table of pastries and fruits, along with a letter welcoming us. Our unit came equipped with a full kitchen and even a washing machine. It was the perfect, little apartment for us to call home for our stay. 

Alternatively, another hotel that came highly recommended was a five-star hotel in the center of Lisbon called Bairro Alto. Although we didn’t stay here, we did check it out and took the opportunity to try their Aperol Spritzes at the rooftop bar. The interior was gorgeous and luxe, and the staff was very pleasant.  

To Do

The best way to explore Lisbon is to get lost in its streets. Walking around you will find upscale, local fashion boutiques like Fairly Normal and +351 among many others. On the weekends, you can't miss Lisbon’s famous flea market Feira da Ladra, where you can find European antiques alongside handmade jewelry and fashion. 

One of the most hands-on shopping experiences we had was at Next Memory Atelier, a perfumery that specializes in customizable solid perfumes. You can choose between colors for the case, stamp it with your initials, and pick your own custom scent to put inside. 

For some more educational fun visit the Tower of Saint Vincent, a stately 16th-century fort that served as a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon for explorers. For art lovers, there is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC/CCB) which has a constant rotation of local and global artists like João Fiadeiro and Patti Smith. 

Lisbon is known as one of the great party cities, which you can tell by walking down the famous bar crowded alley lovingly named “Pink Street”. If you are looking to crash a British Stag Party or get a mean hangover, then spend some time at the bars along this street. For a more upscale cocktail bar try Machimambo, Boavista Social Club or Bacchanal. 

To Eat

Like its sister city Porto, Lisbon is known for its brunch.. One of our favorite meals in the city was at Dear Breakfast, with several locations across the city you are bound to stumble into one. Make sure to try the Cesar on Toast and Halloumi Pancakes while you are there. If you can’t stop by Dear Breakfast, Comoba is another great choice. The large cafe is bright and roomy and has space for you to hang out and get some work done if needed. 

It might be the fact that we are Americans, but as the first signs of homesickness hit everyone in our group started craving a burger. Lucky for us, Dallas was right near our hotel and happened to serve some of the best smash burgers in Lisbon. The fully customizable menu had something for all of us—including the Coke Zero we all needed after a day of travel. 

After a late night out, or if you’re just in the mood for good pizza, Lupita Pizzeria is serving traditional Neapolitan pizza just steps away from Pink Street. Lisbon is also home to the first ever Time Out Market which is absolutely massive and has two floors of culinary goodness to explore. 

On our final night we snagged a reservation at Tricky’s, which was one of the places that cemented my belief that Lisbon is the Brooklyn of Portugal. The interior is dark and chic, but with a young and friendly twist that makes it a must-try. Tricky’s serves small plates that you can see being cooked in the open kitchen (especially if you get a table on the second floor like we did). Each dish was a combination of ingredients that seemed like they shouldn’t go together, but somehow they melded perfectly. The menu changes weekly, but know that you will always get the freshest ingredients and the best vibes. 

What to Pack:

Packing for a week abroad in a carry-on can seem daunting, but there are definitely some essentials you should not leave without. I made sure to pack a pair of comfy shoes. The hills in Portugal are steep, and you are bound to be doing a lot of walking. You’ll also want to bring your own beach towel, as most of the beaches and pools do not provide towels, and having my Baina Roman Pool Towel was a lifesaver. You can leave most of your makeup bag at home, you’ll fit in with the natural beauties and save your pores from being clogged by only packing the essentials. My most used beauty products on the trip were my Free Spirit Correct & Protect Mineral Sunscreen by Thu Brule for the grueling sun, Glow Recipe Watermelon Glow Hue Drops for glowing skin and Samreen’s Vanity Sugar High Dual Ended Lipstick for on-the-go touch ups.  

Should You Go?

Short answer—absolutely. I had been dreaming of visiting Portugal for years, and when I finally bit the bullet, I had no regrets. Porto and Lisbon are great cities for a short trip or a long-term stay, as they are easy to navigate and extremely cheap in comparison to other European cities I’ve visited. I promise the food will be delicious and you won’t run out of things to do!