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Back in 2010 (I’m dating myself), I was completing my third semester abroad in Copenhagen when my best friend suggested I visit her in Madrid during her respective semester abroad. I remember it was cold, cloudy, and I was somehow eating Spanish corn flakes with white bread covered in sugar for most of my trip (not including that one roasted pig in Segovia). Needless to say, aside from the endless trips to Zara and Berksha, churros dipped in chocolate, and cheap red wine and jamón around every corner, I didn’t know what to make of Madrid.
14 years later, I’m here to report a completely different take on Madrid in “only a story I can tell,” this girl from LA protests.
Madrid is basically the new Berlin, drawing creatives, thought leaders, and cosmopolitan seekers from all over the world. The restaurants are cool, the coffee shops are cool, the history is cool, and the people are even cooler. Over the course of 24 hours and 30,000 steps, I found myself wondering if I, too, should start anew in Spain’s cosmopolitan center (where the bee pollen is cheap and the sun almost never sets).
To Stay
After two weeks of traveling across Mallorca and Valencia, Madrid was the final stop on my Spain itinerary before making it back to LA. My mom—aka my travel partner—and I were desperate for our grand finale to be as lush, relaxing, and low-maintenance as possible.
Enter: URSO Hotel & Spa, a 5-star boutique hotel located between the super luxe central districts of Chamberí, Tribunal, and Chueca. And if these neighborhood names mean nothing to you, imagine being minutes away from Madrid’s famous golden triangle of art galleries, exclusive shopping, and trendy bars, restaurants, and coffee shops.
What I loved about URSO Hotel was how it seamlessly integrated the old with the new. The historic outside felt like something out of the 20th century while the inside carried a futuristic, modern energy, infused with key original features such as the central patio, the colorful stained-glass windows, the decorative tiles, the library, the marble floors, and the wooden walls.
We were lucky enough to stay in the Junior Suite, which averages around $450 per night, depending on the time of year. Our room looked out onto the main street of Mejía Lequerica, which provided an ideal view of the city (especially when we watched the sunrise the next morning). I felt like a Spanish Dakota Fanning from the movie Uptown Girls, running my fingers through Spanish magazines, sipping vermouth from a bottle with my name on it, and opening all of the doors that led to the bathroom “just because.”
But let’s not waste anymore time talking about anything but the spa. Omg the spa. Let’s talk about the spa.
When I was doing my research about where to stay in Madrid for our final night, I became fixated on the idea of a pre-flight steam situation needing to be a part of wherever we landed. URSO Hotel delivered.
Almost immediately post-check in, we—within seconds—found ourselves wrapped in hotel robes and slippers, making our way to the spa at the base of the hotel (which also contains a pretty decked out fitness center). We evaporated in the steam room for, what felt like, hours (it was 20 minutes), and then re-grounded in the lap pool that reflected off of ceiling mirrors for the most sensual swimming experience I think I’ve ever had. Note: It’s actually quite hard to balance swimming / floating while also staring at yourself.
Because we were only in Madrid for a short stint, we didn’t get to fully dive into all of URSO Hotel’s amenities, however, I would 100% stay there again in the future for longer to immerse myself in all that the hotel had to offer. Even though we were looking for a lo-may experience, URSO managed to make us feel like we were getting high-maintenance treatment in the best way possible.
To Do
I want to preface all of the things I did during my 24 hours with the caveat that I have been told that I should “rest more.” Too bad there’s no rest for the wicked!
After my mom and I steamed and swam, I rallied us out of the hotel and onto the city streets for a day of “we’re going to see as much as possible,” and “I need you to walk faster.” Good news: all goals were achieved!
I decisively plugged in “Parque Retiro” as our first stop, open to whatever else might happen along the way.
With over 300 acres and more than 15,000 trees, Parque Retiro is the green haven in the heart of Madrid. There are multiple historic gardens juxtaposed alongside the Estanque Grande, which is a breathtaking “pond” (feels like the wrong word) where you can row a rowboat for the ultimate immersion. Since 25 July 2021, the park has been recognised, along with the Paseo del Prado. You simply cannot miss it when you’re visiting, no matter how touristy you might feel!
Next up was Plaza Mayor, which—again, while touristy—is an absolute Madrid must for first-time Madridians.
About another 20ish minutes or so from Parque Retiro, Plaza Mayor is a major symbol of the city that also puts you right in the middle of the hustle and bustle. Built in the 17th century by King Philip III, Plaza Mayor has been the setting for many public events (bullfights, fiestas, and executions included), but is now an inclusive square of bars, restaurants, and shops.
During the warmer months, places like Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol (which is like Madrid’s Times Square equivalent) can get pretty packed, which can also be slightly overwhelming, so be aware that these are, indeed, heavily trafficked areas for tourist programming. With all of that said, there is so much to see just going to and fro these main attractions that it’s very easy to find yourself off the beat and path in neighborhoods that feel more authentic to real-life Madrid living.
Finalmente, as far as sites are concerned, my mom and I ended our evening by making our way through Puerta del Sol, which is the shopping center for Madrid. It is one of the most famous squares in Madrid, and houses some of the most significant landmarks and buildings in the capital, such as Kilometer Zero.
What was really fun (or divertido) was that right behind all of the cosmopolitan hubbub were really dynamic, diverse neighborhoods, including the Barrio de las Letras (Literary Quarter), which is an intimate square of bars, restaurants, and beautiful architecture.
Most notably, throughout our very aggressive, 30,000-step journey throughout the city, I was consistently shocked by how many people were just “out and about”—especially compared to a driving city like LA. Even compared to NYC standards, Madrid felt like it was dancing with people at all hours in a way that was initially overwhelming and then quickly became inspiring. Somehow, these people are up until the sun comes up, and yet look like they’re as vital as ever.
To Eat
It’s no secret that Spain is one of the most gastronomically renowned countries in the world…which also sets a pretty high bar for a 24-hour jaunt in Spain’s largest capital city.
When it came to food options in Madrid, my mom and I agreed upon a combination of both whimsy and planning. “Whimsy” would be applied during our lunch hour while “Planning” would rely on…well…planning (and my friend Helen’s recommendation list from her honeymoon).
Coffee / Lunch: Osom
Think: Australian flat whites, matcha lattes, avocado toasts, acai bowls, and pancake stacks. This health-forward, trend-focused coffee shop was actually incredible for LA-infused sustenance that actually beat LA at its own game (do you know how hard it is to find a coffee shop that says “no” when you ask “is your plant-based mylk sweetened?”).
We settled on a plant-based iced matcha and coffee alongside joint avocado toasts (Not pictured: an avocado toast with eggs and goji berries, like omg).
The crowd was filled to the brim with Gen Z’ers who know what’s in and out, and I didn’t even see anyone trying to grab a pic for their feeds.
Dinner: Sala De Despiece 2
Grace Adler from Will and Grace once said, “Now you listen to me,” and that’s what I’m asking you to do. Sala De Despiece 2 (aka SDD2) is one of the best restaurant experiences I’ve had in years. This “new concept” restaurant is the moment. You can either order a la carte or with a set prefix, which—price-wise—is highly competitive in comparison to LA / NY prices.
We opted for a la carte, essentially requesting that the server just decide for us. Everything was delivered in a next-level, performance art piece, and the food was memorably delicious. You must not miss their Artichoke, Mussels, Rolex (insane), Chuletón, Octopus, Tacos, and deconstructed Cheese Flan.
Until Next Time
Maybe Madrid has always been the “Cool Girl” of Europe, and I’ve just been too focused on Erewhon to realize it. But this time around, I have to say that leaving this outrageously cutting edge city made me feel like I was leaving a vortex of energy where absolutely anything was possible.
Recently, I’ve felt that we’re all “white knuckling it” a bit when it comes to optimizing our lives. You can only eat between this time or that time, those ingredients are inherently bad for you, if you’re not doing x, y, or z, you’re probably not getting your life right! “Period. Full stop,” as my mom has been saying.
Madrid is the beating heart of Spain, which is now ranked at the top of the list as one of the best countries to live in, given they value life over work, joy over pain, and really good food above all else. Somehow, they’re breaking all of the “rules,” and yet their way of life has me wondering if they are actually the ones making the rules we should be following. Hasta pronto!