Our team is dedicated to finding and telling you more about the web’s best products. If you purchase through our links, we may receive a commission. Our editorial team is independent and only endorses products we believe in.
Maybe it's the masochist in me, but for most of my life summer produce always seemed a bit too… easy. I'm supposed to just bite into this unadorned peach? Boil this ear of corn for only two minutes? Where's the martyrdom in that, my un-therapied ass would have asked you.
These days, however, I'm all about life's simple pleasures, and when Mother Nature does the hard work for you that's all the more reason to celebrate. As we approach Labor Day, summer produce reaches its sultriest, most concentrated form — tomatoes burst with ripeness, melons grin in the heat — and all that bounty needs is a low-lift assist from your pantry. Luckily for all of us, we're hosting Ben Mims, the Cooking Columnist for the LA Times and absolute king of the farmers' market, for family meal this month. His tips for making the most of your produce are never less than inventive, but especially this time of year are painless enough for any weeknight.
So whether you're planning your last summer shindig, or you're sick of solo-sauteeing squash the same way every time, read on for some clutch wisdom from our most esteemed guest yet.
We like
We don't like
SALT AND SLATHER
Delicious as your average August veggie is, Ben immediately put his finger on an all-too-common problem: "While winter produce is dense, summer produce can be super watery. You've got to draw out some of that moisture so you can intensify the flavors." One of his go-to techniques is to salt things ahead of time; everything from eggplants to pluots can stand to lose excess water. Just slice your fruit or veg and arrange it on paper towels, sprinkle with kosher salt and allow it to hang out while you keep puttering around.
In the meantime, you can work up (or unscrew) a vinaigrette to further amp up the flavor quotient. By drizzling a tangy, oily dressing over your salted produce, you can enliven blank canvases like zucchini or coax the savory side out of sweeter fruits like peaches. Ben and I both agreed that Acid League's vinegars would serve you pretty perfectly here, whether you go high-octane with All the Alliums' shallots and black garlic notes, or keep things mellow and mild with the Meyer Lemon Honey. Either would make a gorgeous vinaigrette with their in-house Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil, but they also sell pre-made dressings like the Pink Peppercorn Honey Yuzu.
If this sounds like the beginnings of a salad, that's because it is — but Ben suggests ditching the greens in favor of heartier fare. "I like to add cheese and nuts, some chopped basil, maybe toasted almonds or cashews. Things that will add additional flavor instead of just roughage." You can go basic or spiced with your nuts, but make sure to go sharp with your cheese. Salty feta or aged cheddar will truly sing against all that freshness.
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
BURN IT UP
Another way to quickly elevate your summer veg is to blacken it, whether on the grill or under the broiler. Okra is a fantastic candidate for this treatment, as a hit of fire burns off its oft-unpopular sliminess. In fact, Ben is the very person who made me an okra convert, thanks to his unbelievable recipe for Charred Okra and Corn Salad with Spicy Sausage Vinaigrette. It calls for mild, floral Jimmy Nardello peppers, which you can source online here if you can't find them in person, but I used both regular red bell and Hungarian wax peppers to great effect. The way each ingredient plays off of spicy Italian sausage (or the best vegan alternative on the market, Impossible) is a testament to just how far a little char can go.
Alternatively, while you've got the flame going, you can grill some slices of crusty bread for some delicious tomato toast. I already screamed at you in the June column about my obsession with garlic + mayo + salted tomatoes, but you can substitute just about any fat for spreading on your sourdough. Some creamy French Beurre de Baratte; a heap of rich, fluffy ricotta. However you like it, just get some real color on that bread, even if in the toaster — a crispier crust will allow you to rub cut garlic cloves directly on the surface.
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
MUST BE JELLY CAUSE JAM DON'T SHAKE
Blackberries are at their best by the time we hit late August, and there are plenty of ways to enjoy them outside of cobblers and parfaits. One of Ben's signature moves is to make jellies and jams, like this Blackberry Jelly with Amaro that requires very little active time. As a certified amaro-head, I love how many different bottles you can try out here. Ben's recommendations of Montenegro or Braulio are spot-on, but I'm eager to sub in my new favorite Amaro Amara. It's made from Sicilian blood oranges, which sounds like actual heaven combined with ripe, reduced berries.
And while he didn't have a recipe for one per se, Ben and I are both big fans of turning stone fruit into sugary, shattering galettes. Peaches, plums, and nectarines — really, whatever looks and smells the best during your shop — all work perfectly with this flexible template, which is great with a homemade dough but just as fab with storebought puff pastry. It's worth splurging on a solid, all-butter brand like industry favorite DuFour; sadly the bargain stuff uses vegetable oil, which can't hold a candle on the flavor side.
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
We like
We don't like
OUT WITH A BANG
As someone who only half-dabbles in TikTok, even I've heard of how chamoy has taken the algorithm by storm. A style of Mexican condiment made from pickled fruit, it's most commonly drizzled on mango or pineapple, but according to Ben is killer on late-summer staples like melons and watermelons as well. The TikTok darling brand is unquestionably I Love Chamoy, which boasts surprising sugar-free bona fides, but I'm a fan of the Chamoy Botana Sauce from Siete Foods as well. Both were founded by Mexican-American women and pack enough brightness and punch to flip fruit salad on its head.
Last but not least, Ben had a fun curveball inspired by a recent trip to Montréal. While there, he visited a contemporary Thai night market, where he fell in love with a corn dish prepared in the style of papaya salad. He suggests lightly boiled corn, or even raw, thinly sliced green beans, would be a fantastic base for flavors like soy sauce, lime juice and fish sauce, as well as crushed peanuts and mint. I for one will be immediately following this papaya salad recipe with either (or both) of those veggies subbed in, while breaking out the condiments from Momofuku's new Pantry Starter Pack. Yes, corn is divine on its own, but why not play around while we're still feeling spry and summery?
TIL NEXT TIME, SUMMER GIRLS
All these tips aside, the best advice to keep in mind is to buy fresh and local whenever possible. As someone who only ate year-round, grocery store tomatoes for far too long, my first bite of an in-season beefsteak was truly a revelation. Much of Ben's advice can be applied to whatever's currently shining at your local farmers' market, so take full license to mix and match rather than following these recipes aggressively.
The beauty of August produce, after all, is that you really can't f*ck it up.
.jpg){kind=spacer}
