Late Checkout: 48 Hours on Guana Island, a Private 850-Acre Resort in the British Virgin Islands

The saying goes, ‘It's not the destination, it's the journey,’ but in regards to Guana Island, the destination is truly everything. While the journey to this secluded, private island in the British Virgin Islands is an expedition of its own (visitors can only reach it by boat), the reward is well worth it. Upon arrival, guests are greeted by one (of seven) of Guana Island's white sand beaches. With lush green mountains and scenic ridges rising high beyond the beach, the 18 white cottages and villas scattered across the landscape come into view. At first glance–or every glance for that matter–the island looks similar to how it did over 200 years ago–virtually untouched. Of the more than 850 acres, only about three percent is developed, meaning Guana Island is essentially unspoiled.

The history of Guana Island is as intricate as its landscapes, and it’s what initially drew me to the island. In the 18th century, two Quaker families settled on the island during what was called the “Quaker Experiment” to farm sugarcane and cotton. During their time on the island, they built small, simple homes as well as a few walls, cannons, and sugar mills, some of which can still be seen on the island today. Then in the 1930s, a second wave of travelers arrived on the island. Beth and Louis Bigelow of Massachusetts chose Guana Island after meeting in the Soviet Union in the early thirties. They decided they didn’t want to live under any form of government, so after they got married, they set out to create their own way of life. Enter Guana Island. Once on the island, they built six stone cottages inspired by the Quaker houses and turned the island into a retreat for artists, naturalists, and intellectuals. 

After falling in love with Guana Island, visitors Henry and Gloria Jarecki purchased the property in 1975. They updated the rooms and Clubhouse while carefully preserving the historical charm. Committed to maintaining the island’s natural beauty, the Jareckis launched a long-term conservation strategy focused on preserving biodiversity, which included a formal scientific program to restore and protect endangered species, control invasive species, and address threats to coral reefs and marine ecosystems. They also established an annual scientist’s month to give researchers the opportunity to study and document the island’s plants and wildlife. All that to say, the island is especially mindful of its environmental impact and all the plants and animals that call it home.

Flash forward to today, and the accommodations on Guana Island reflect its past with a mix of luxurious simplicity. There are only 15 individually designed sea-view rooms and four villas, which means the island can host a maximum of 42 guests. Native stone and coral cottages have white stucco walls and vintage rattan furniture that keeps the property laid back and relaxed. The patios are big, making them the perfect place to work, read, or enjoy a morning coffee or evening cocktail. 

For a more exclusive stay, guests can opt for one of the private villas (like the North Beach Villa or Jost House Villa), which offer multiple bedrooms, private pools, and expansive terraces with views of the island and water. While the rooms are intentionally understated to stay in line with the island’s laid-back feel, they don’t skimp on comfort. Plush bedding, spacious bathrooms, robust air conditioners, and all the essential amenities can be found.

In terms of dining, Guana Island has its own special, all-inclusive system. Much like a summer camp, the resort has specific meal times where all guests meet at the Clubhouse. Breakfast is from 8 to 10 a.m., lunch is from 1 to 2 p.m., and dinner is at 7:30 p.m. There’s also an optional cocktail hour that starts at 6:45. p.m. 

All meals and wines (except for reserve bottles), as well as snacks (hello, tropical fruit and fresh-baked cookies), are included. The breakfast, lunch, and dinner features fresh, local ingredients, often sourced directly from the island’s organic orchard and gardens. Lunch can be served at the beach if guests so wish, as long as they tell the team beforehand. For drinks, guests can whip up their own creations both at the Clubhouse and beach bar or wait until the nightly cocktail hour prior to dinner. 

As for food, the culinary team serves a rotating menu of Caribbean-inspired dishes with an emphasis on seafood, tropical fruits, and classic dishes. (At lunch, the team will show you a menu with free different entrées–one fish, one meat, and one vegetarian–that you will get to pick for dinner.) Communal dining is encouraged, allowing guests to choose what tables they would (or would not) like to sit by, though private dining is available for those who want something more intimate. 

One of the best features of Guana Island is its wide range of activities for guests, including all kinds of options for those who want to explore, relax, or fully immerse themselves in nature. The island is home to seven beaches, each one with soft sands and crystal-clear waters perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and kayaking. (I found White Bay Beach to be the best for watching the sunset.)

For those who enjoy hiking, Guana has an impressive network of trails. Hikers can climb to the 806-foot summit of Sugarloaf Mountain for incredible views of the sea (the whole journey takes about two hours, so be prepared for a good workout), or descend an old stone staircase at Long Man’s Point to swim in hidden pools. For those who want to stay closer to safety, the island offers tennis, volleyball, badminton, croquet, ping-pong, and even bocce, lawn bowling, and horseshoes at the beach. Not to mention, the island’s Hibiscus Spa has great treatments, including holistic therapies, hot stone massages, facials, and body scrubs featuring ingredients from the island’s organic orchard. The best part? There are two white donkeys on the property who love to be fed banana leaves. 

No matter what brings you to this destination, Guana Island is sure to be unlike anywhere you’ve been before. From its untouched landscapes, serene beaches, diverse activities, and commitment to preserving biodiversity, this exclusive escape is one of the British Virgin Island’s best-kept secrets.