Functional Fashion Is All The Rage In Japan

When you think about Japanese fashion, it's likely that kitschy colorful pieces, futuristic avant garde silhouettes, and the general Kawaii aesthetic come to mind. But on the heels of a week-long trip to Tokyo for Nike and Laureus’s 2024 Coach The Dream summit, I was surprised to see how much the locals prioritized functional fashion over pure aesthetics. Most people, across generations, tend to stick to neutral color stories and clean silhouettes, favoring brands like Arc'teryx, Carhartt (heritage label as well as WIP), and Hoka, where function is at the forefront. Between cultural expectations influencing everyday style and all the ways in which the locals are ensuring their clothing is working hard in their wardrobe, we can learn a thing or two about combining fashion and pragmatics, without sacrificing one for the other.

Japan’s Function-Forward History 

According to online publication Tokyo Weekender, Japan’s functional ties date back to the 15th century. “Early Japanese clothes were plain and practical, suited to a nation of hunters and gatherers, who later evolved into farmers and craftsmen,” writer Bunny Bissoux explains in a 2021 article titled Japanese Fashion Through The Eras: From Heian to Heisei. A prime example, the famed Tabi–or jika tabi, which was created with the idea of internal (and external) balance top of mind. 

Early Japanese clothes were plain and practical, suited to a nation of hunters and gatherers, who later evolved into farmers and craftsmen. 

The Tabi was first introduced as a split toe sock that promotes separating the big toe as a holistic, reflexology strategy, as well as physical and spiritual balance. (It’s since evolved into one of the fashion industry’s most polarizing shoes, thanks to more modern iterations a lá Maison Margiela and Nike’s Air Rift sneakers from the ‘90s.) This more conservative and pragmatic way of dressing can be directly attributed to a variety of economic changes in Japan throughout the decades that came from war. The 20-layer kimono of the 1600s was being designed to be more loose fitting with wide sleeves and a belt by the Meiji Restoration in 1868. Despite the wave of westernization, most women found the newer way of dress as impractical for their Japanese lifestyle 

Post-War Fashion

However, after World War II, Japanese fashion became a bit more provocative, with shorter hemlines and more Westernized designs, like denim infiltrating the market. Wartime restrictions banned loud and showy outfits in favor of more modest clothing, but after the economic boom of the 1950s fashion trends began to develop quickly. By then, the Kimono and other traditional garb was often reserved for special occasions and Western dress became more popular. 

Wartime restrictions banned loud and showy outfits in favor of more modest clothing, but after the economic boom of the 1950s fashion trends began to develop quickly.

But there was still a lingering, overarching theme of practicality that’s still present among the locals. While I perused the streets of fashion-forward neighborhoods like Harajuku, Shibuya, and Ginza, it was evident that despite being revered by the masses for standing out in colorful kitschy outfits, most Japanese people that I saw on the train, or out and about at restaurants, primarily wore uniformed shades of black, blue, and brown. 

Pragmatic Consumer Habits

Japan’s function-forward approach to everyday style also presents itself in the way consumers shop. As mentioned in a WIPC article from October, the tradition of saving money is a very integral part of Japanese culture, which in turn influences the way the locals shop for clothing. This penchant for saving is anchored in decades of economic stability with minimal inflation and the lingering effects of the 1990 financial bubble burst,” the report explains. “Add an ageing demographic and looming social security concerns into the mix, and you’ll understand why a BIGLOBE survey found over 80% of respondents leaning towards saving rather than spending. 

This penchant for saving is anchored in decades of economic stability with minimal inflation and the lingering effects of the 1990 financial bubble burst

Quality clothing with functional features ensures that those buying and wearing them get the most bang for their buck and don’t have to keep re-purchasing the same items. Apart from saving money, the Japanese also tend to have a high regard for their material possessions, treating them with the utmost care and essentially ensuring they last longer. This includes investing in quality materials that will last in wardrobes for years to come, buying versatile items that can be mixed and matched, with ease, and repurposing and mending the pieces they already own–hence the use of ancient techniques like Kintsugi, the Japanese art form of repairing broken pottery using urushi lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum. 

This is still a major touchstone of inspirations for designers such as George Inaki Root, founder of Milamore Fine Jewelry Japan, whose pieces are best known for their Kintsugi-esque look. In terms of clothing, Japanese retailer Uniqlo’s Down Recycle and Re.Studio programs are other great examples, as it allows customers to both bring in clothes to be mended and respectfully parting ways with a piece, instead of simply throwing it away. 

Dressing For The Weather

Historical and cultural connotations aside, I quickly learned that the constantly fluctuating weather in Japan is another reason why the locals rely on function-forward fashion. My first few days in Tokyo were rainy and humid during the day, yet windy and brisk at night. Whereas the end of the week was sunny and warm without a cloud in the sky. Along with it being a walkable city this quick change in temperature required versatile clothing and footwear made from technical, lightweight, and moisture-wicking materials. So it makes sense that there was no shortage of Ralph Lauren sweaters, wax-coated Barbour jackets, and L.L Bean totes and chore coats, in second hand shops and Beams Official stores all around the city––further proving that the locals prioritize those practical essentials that will withstand fleeting weather conditions.

There was no shortage of Ralph Lauren sweaters, wax-coated Barbour jackets, and L.L Bean totes and chore coats, in second hand shops and Beams Official stores all around the city

Although certain regions of the United States, such as the Midwest and Northwest, adhere to a more functional approach, a good portion of the country still prioritizes aesthetics. So it was fascinating how Japan has managed to not only find a way to seamlessly blend the two, without sacrificing one for the other. But there’s also a certain level of care and appreciation for one’s belonging, missing from the majority of American consumers. And to say we could learn a thing or two would be a massive understatement.