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A few years ago, on a lark, some friends and I decided to do a bit of glamping in the Cuyama Badlands. We checked into a yurt surrounded by nothing but a cowboy tub and a sky full of stars, constantly remarking on the fact that we were truly in the middle of nowhere. Though less than 40 miles from Santa Barbara as the crow flies, New Cuyama sits on the other side of the Los Padres National Forest, where the desert stretches on for miles and the population clocks in at only 550 residents.
As such, it never struck me as a repeat destination — and even when friends raved to me about Cuyama Buckhorn, I felt no urgency around visiting. But having recently returned from a stay, I can tell you just how wrong I was. Not only is the Buckhorn possibly my favorite boutique hotel in all of California, the property's isolation is also its greatest selling point. As a constant over-planner on vacation, I finally had occasion to stay in one place and enjoy the slow unwind for once. And when the grounds are this gorgeous and the food & bev this on-point, why would you leave the property anyway?
YOUR VERY OWN HIDEAWAY
Located in the "Hidden Valley of Enchantment" off the two-lane Route 166, New Cuyama isn't cosplaying as cowboy country: it's very much the real deal. That history courses through the land and the property, built in 1952 as a roadside stay for oil workers and ranch hands in need of some sustenance. Though it was rebranded under new ownership in 2018, and it's mostly city dwellers traveling through these days, in hybrid cars and not on horseback, Cuyama Buckhorn still shimmers like an oasis against the Santa Ynez Mountains.
The first thing you'll likely see is the bustling café and outdoor BBQ space out front, which caters to guests and locals alike, but retreating inside to the courtyard you'll find a hotel layout that feels both spacious and intimate. There are just 21 guest rooms on-site, starting from $225/night (mid-week during low season), with nary a bad room type in the mix. Each is appointed with cozy, vibey details like vintage radios and Western-themed novels, and even the smallest rooms, the Classic Queens, have a view of the pool and a shared patio space. Not to mention a welcome s'mores kit.
I stayed in a Deluxe King, which also opened up onto a shared patio but had its own private front porch as well (which, crucially for the time of year, was shaded). The tiled shower bench and roomy bathroom were noted perks, but as a mini-bar junkie you know I was most excited to scope out the snacks + drinks situation. Delicious local foods like Santa Barbara Pistachios and Just Jujubes from Rock Front Ranch joined a triple threat of elevated spirits: Haymaker's Vodka, Wilder Gin and Madre Mezcal, a personal favorite. Pre-made cocktails like the Whiskey Sunshine rounded out the mix, with lower-ABV options like Oxbow's Farmhouse Ale on deck to bring poolside.
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SPEAKING OF THE POOL
While Cuyama Buckhorn's communal fire pit and fireplace come alive once the sun goes down, by day the hotel's centerpiece is unquestionably the pool deck. That's not just because the pool is large, the chairs are comfortable, and the playlist is somehow the only pool playlist in the history of hotels that actually enhanced the ambiance — it's also because the view of the mountains in the distance is simply unbeatable.
I spent my days ping-ponging between the pool, the king-size jacuzzi, and the totally unexpected barrel sauna large enough for two. The combined effect was so relaxing, especially when donning my complimentary Brooklinen robe, that I even finished a book — something I always dream of doing poolside but can rarely find the focus to accomplish. The one missing amenity worth flagging is that there's no gym on the property, which feels like a disappointment with all that downtime until you surrender to being off the hook.
DIG IN
Somehow I've gone this far without diving into what truly makes Cuyama Buckhorn sing: its knockout food and beverage program. I timed my visit around one of their celebratory Chuckhouse BBQs, thrown every third Saturday of the month from late spring until mid-fall. Dishes like smoked pork ribs with apricot BBQ sauce and grilled zucchini with basil-pumpkin seed pesto elevate the proceedings from your average cookout — and with the last event of the year coming up on October 21st, I highly recommend you check one out yourself.
But no matter when you visit, the meals are delightful. Breakfast pastries at the Buck Stop, lunch at the Buckhorn diner and dinner from the main dining room aren't just delicious; they can be served to you anywhere on property. In fact I was this close to having dinner sent out to one of their long, outdoor sectionals — but then I would've missed my chats with Bar Lead Sam Seidenberg.
I knew Sam was on another level when I read the description of his cocktail named God's Country: "rye, 3H wagyu beef, Coors light, corn." When I asked him what on Earth that meant, he described the drink to me as not just a super-savory Old Fashioned, but a love letter to the territory. The rye was washed with fat from local wagyu beef cows, corn (which is fed to the local cattle) was incorporated in the form of a roasted corn liqueur, and the cowboys' favorite Coors Light was reduced down into a simple syrup. Sam had me in the palm of his hand from that moment on, and I happily spent both dinners at his bar inhaling every story he had to share with me.
HAPPY TRAILS
There really isn't a wrong way to do Cuyama Buckhorn. While its dreamy golden light lends itself to a romantic couples' getaway, I relished the alone time as a solo traveler, and also saw one or two small families take advantage of games like bocce ball and billiards. While many come for Superbloom in spring, the perks of a quieter stay during summer, winter or fall are more than self-evident.
The destination is a perfect alternative to Palm Springs or Ojai for the LA/Orange County weekender, but well worth adding to a California itinerary for those of you venturing in from out-of-state. By all means drive the Pacific Coast Highway first, but this sliver of Western-era magic is just as much classic CA as our coastline. I'll absolutely be back before years' end, whether solo again or with some of the friends I've been raving about it to.
Just no one who will ruin my poolside zen. The tranquility the Buckhorn has to offer is too special to be spoiled.
Book your desert escape at Cuyama Buckhorn today.
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