Late Checkout: Checking In and Out of Pikaia Lodge

Bucket List Trip. Ever heard of it? That’s what most people consider The Galapagos Islands to be, a trip they must take. Far flung and not-so-easy-to-get-to (it’s a cluster of islands off the coast of Ecuador), this remote destination should obviously be a top pick for anyone who loves wildlife (think: penguins, iguanas, tortoises and the famous blue footed boobie). Oddly enough, I never even considered this sort of trip. I lean toward exotic locations with medinas or centuries-old architecture in charming cities. But after a few days in “The Galap” (being pampered and catered to, no less),  I maintain that this trip is for just about anyone (who is filled with wonder and curiosity). That’s because it offers up way more than just exotic bird sightings – it has history, culture, food, and pure, unadulterated natural beauty. 

As a destination best known to have been studied by Charles Darwin, you’ll learn all about the origins of the island’s species with some history and science to boot. Guides are sensitive to the topic of evolution, leaving conversations to be had after-hours, which was one of the most stimulating parts of my trip. And with 19 islands and a marine reserve that have been called a unique “living museum and showcase of evolution,” you’re bound to return a more knowledgeable human upon returning home. 

To Stay

Being invited to stay at Pikaia Lodge is not something to take lightly. As the only true five star (land) property in the Galapagos, it’s like arriving at a hill-top glass castle that also happens to be eco-friendly, have award-winning food, and moving rapidly in the direction of sustainable and plastic-zero. The design is sustainable-chic (crafted by the owner’s London-based interior designer daughter), which means lots of thoughtfully placed travertine and materials that are native to the region. Entry level rooms have floor-to-ceiling glass windows and generously sized bathrooms (this editor was particularly impressed with the selection of hair dryer attachments offered). Downtime on the property includes a spa, a small gym and a stunning jacuzzi.

To Do

The best thing about Pikaia is that all you have to do is show up (they handle every last detail). Depending on how long you stay, your time is divided between land excursions and water excursions. We stayed five days which gave us minimum amount of time to explore the islands while also grabbing a massage or two, a morning work-out, and a property hike. On our two “Day Days,” we explored tortoise incubators (along with tortoises in the wild – and I mean, so wild they were plopped in the middle of the road), powder-sand beaches studded with huge black iguanas (Tortuga Bay is considered to be one of the most beautiful beaches in the world), we helped re-forest the landscape by planting Pikaia-sponsored trees, we kayaked among hammerhead sharks and turtles, shopped in the villages (we especially liked the chunky knits handmade by local single moms), wandered through lava tunnels on foot and ate a cheese empanada stuffed with cane sugar (a hot tip from our guide, Javier). Came back to the lodge, had the best massage, and settled into the jacuzzi that overlooks the magical greenery. Boom.

Our two “Boat Days” looked very different. Since Pikaia is the only luxury property to own their own yacht (yup!), guests of the lodge are driven to the docks, loaded onto the tender and deposited on a boat that can only be summed up as “money.” Everyone gets their own cabin, bathroom and shower for the day so you can rinse off after snorkeling with the sea lions, flathead sharks, turtles and tons of tropical fish. And if you’re worried about getting seasick (as I was), the guides offer up dramamine which does the trick. Editor note: fellow South African passengers gave me a double dose of Zofran that worked even better. 

Even on the off season when the water was a bit choppy, this editor was just fine (sprawled out on her Queen Sized bed in her cabin, of course). An elegant breakfast and lunch are served in the boat’s restaurant with waitstaff, and the rest of the day is spent gawking at the stunning landscape’s shades of berry, forest green and crystal blue that will inspire just about anyone. 

To Eat

If you think you will be served mediocre meals at this lodge (food is included in overall hotel cost), think again. With executive chefs that are flown off to train in Kyoto and France, these are no amateurs in the kitchen. Expect fresh-caught ceviche, grass-fed burgers, spiced-rubbed shrimp and beetroot salads. My gluten free dietary restriction was noted by the waitstaff and I was greeted with cassava muffins in lieu of bread for every meal. On our last night we were met with a Michelin-level nine course meal – the stand-out of which was cod wrapped in “lava” crunch to echo what we had seen that day. A sophisticated wine list (along with some special local blends) rounded out each dinner. Chef’s kiss, mwah.

What I packed:

Having visited in the off-season, the weather swayed from warm during the day to chilly at night (with a few sprinkles here and there).