Late Checkout: 48 Hours in Magical Kyoto

While many think that Tokyo is Japan’s main attraction, I’m partial to Kyoto, the older, wiser, more charming cousin that’s only a two-hour (and 250 mph) bullet train away. Otherwise known as “Old Japan,” you’ll find back streets dotted with unassuming storefronts, charming little bakeries, sparkling palaces, and discreet little restaurants. And, it’s for everyone – design aficionados, those seeking a bit of spiritual wonder, style-files, and of course, the food-obsessed. Walk along the historic Kamo river and you might even hit the vacation jackpot (witnessing a wedding!). 

To Stay

Since we were only staying for two nights, my choice of hotels in Kyoto was a splurge. But The Mitsui, a luxury hotel in Marriott's boutique tier, has officially become one of my favorite hotels of all time. Service in Japan seems to be top-notch across all star categories, but what you’re paying for here is super elevated design (the courtyard garden is so chic, especially at night), all-star food (I was obsessed with the Japanese breakfast that comes with everything from miso cod to Asian pear salad and savory tomago), and gorgeous touches like his-and-hers pajamas that you will want to swipe. And since it’s one of the few hotels with its own onsen (a thermal hot springs tub), you can book a private bathing experience along with an accompanying breakfast, which was the ultimate way to kick off my friend Eve’s birthday. ‍

To See

The famed bamboo groves are worth a visit, and what better way to see them than to hop in a rickshaw that’s pulled around town by a very strong young man (question morals here). In town, you will see tiny streets dotted with kimono-clad girls walking arm-and-arm, as if you were in a movie and ques for the city’s best ramen. 

Next, it’s shrine time! This is why you came. Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples – all different and yet stunning in their own right – punctuate the city and offer spots to make wishes and prayers (we spied many for Middle East peace this year), along with opportunities to buy loved ones lucky charms and light incense to self-purify. Be sure to walk the grounds at each location so as not to miss the authentic Japanese gardens (some of which have been around since the 13^th century). 

Wandering around the Kyoto backstreets were some of my favorite memories as that’s where the charm is (other places in the city feel almost industrial). We spotted an old man feeding a heron, a couple who just got married, a home built around a pine tree, yummy snack shops and teeny tiny coffee houses. We almost missed the Nijo-Jo Castle, had it not been across the street from our hotel and I was so grateful I saw it. Dragon murals, gold-leaf panels, and beautiful grounds were the ultimate send-off to a dreamy week.

To Shop

There’s no shortage of antique Japanese pottery but Robert Yellin, a California native, has truly cornered the market when it comes to curation on the highest level. I read that his off-the-beaten-path gallery would not disappoint (and it didn’t). That said, it’s not the place to go when you want to pick up gifts – my initial find was $4,000 and I had to gently put it back down. But if you want to learn about ancient techniques and true craftsmanship (and stories from a super groovy art dealer), this is the spot. 

Buly, the french apothecary that gives Bell Epoque, has outposts in Tokyo and Kyoto, the latter being more grand and beautiful (here, get gifts!) Also not to be missed: hand-made coffee canister shops, beautiful Japanese papers, and my favorite – a hole-in-the-wall vintage kimono store where my husband claimed I “blacked out” from excitement (I bought two styles from the 70s). We still managed to miss other shops on my list but such is the tight schedule.

To Eat

Wife and Husband, is a microscopic coffee shop that will make you whip out your camera. It’s made for only a few and is as adorable as it gets. Coffee culture is huge in Japan, so finding the right spots is a must. 

Our first lunch break was nothing short of epic. Awomb, billed as make-your-own sushi, was anything but basic. Imagine a giant bento box, with each element its own micro-course, set on a slate in such an artful way, you almost don’t want to ruin it by digging in. Gorgeous slices of fish, seaweed and sushi rice with crab and roe are perched next door, begging to be wrapped into mini hand rolls. Fun, inventive, delicious. 

For evening, we hit up K-Ya, a super elegant bar that felt as if it were nestled in the woods. Walls of stunningly packaged Japanese whiskey and classical music take up space in this sophisticated spot. Following, we were lucky enough to experience Sushi Saeki, which is not your average sushi joint but rather a Michelin haven of heaven. Tucked into a quiet corner, with only 10 seats at the bar, the Milanese (yup!) chef, brings his A-Game to every course, giving new meaning to “melt-in-your-mouth.” 

Night Two was Kaseiki at Gion Maruyama, a traditional Japanese meal that was thoughtfully presented in a small, private room. And while we “went fancy” for our dinners, there are amazing local options that don’t require a down payment. Sidenote: for my friend’s birthday we did a very special afternoon tea at the Aman, which came with sweet and savory boxes, champagne, and tableside matcha making. It was the ultimate way to spend a rainy afternoon.

‍What I Packed

While many flock to Japan in (over-priced but very beautiful) cherry blossom season, many argue that November is the best time to go. The air is crisp, but temps can be in the high-70s. And if you get hit with a bout of rain, the city’s temples and gardens are somehow even more magical.